Drainage issue down one side of house

It was the "planning and transportation" department. They asked the area where I lived than put me through to some guy who then spent a few minutes looking something up then told me the info.

Another question, my landscaper wants to use non waxy weed suppressant fabric that holds soil but allows water to pass through. What is the best stuff to buy that is the most robust and last the most years?

I have checked this website but don't know the best one to buy, I only require 10 metres square.

www.terramlandscape.com

A thought just came into my head, will this drainage system need to be maintained and if so, how often?
 
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As far as a silt trap goes you just run your drains into one of those bottle traps with removeable centre section and then from that into your rainwater gulley. Then peridoically, like once a year, just check it for silt build up.
 
Thanks r896neo, can you give me a link which shows a "bottle trap with removeable centre section"?

thanks
 
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and if you have a water meter, check it isn't spinning when the house is not using water. could be drainage, but it could also be a leaky main......
 
I am having doubts about having a sump dug next to my rainwater drain, and also holes being drilled(is closed off) into the rainwater drain. I wanted to take the water away from my house not towards it.

What if the drain blocks, will it not flood next to my house?

I've told the landscaper this and he says, he could take the water to the front of the house but then there is a possibility the front lawn could flood or the water could affect the monoblock. Since I am paying him, he says he will do as I ask, but he insisted that draining to drainwater drain was the best way of doing it. He said draining the front lawn (away from house) was the easy way.

Could someone provide assistance here?
 
I don't really understand what your worried about, what is this sump your talking about?

All that needs to happen is to dig a hole for your bottle gully, dig around the existing gully, expose the first foot or two of pipe then either drain the bottle gully into the existing trap or if there is no connector then simply Y into the existin rainwater pipe.

This is all pretty straight forward for someone who knows what they are doing.

Your concerns about it blocking are also a little over-stated, do you worry about all your other gullys and drains blocking? no because they function properly and this one will too. Of course drains get blocked now and again but I would agree with the landscaper in that the risks associated with simply relocating the water onto your driveway are valid.
 
I decided to give the drainage further thought but in the meantime got landscaper out yesterday in to tidy things up a bit.

Landscaper, amongst other things, removed everything from side of house. However, it was a heavy rainfall. There was pools of water against the house, like in photos in previous posting, only water actually in contact with a lot of the bricks along the ground level.

When I expressed my concern, the landscaper said "there could be water against the building permanently, as long as it was below the DPM it will do no harm. Houses are build to withstand this. The issue of drainage here is if you want to use the side of your house for something not if the water is damaging your house".

He said he could put in drainage but if I am not going to use my garden or side of house for anything (which he knows I don't intend to) then there is nothing to gain.

Is he right? I am only worried about the house.

In the morning although there was still a few puddles around, the water against the bricks had gone.
 
Whilst what he says is true in theory in real life it's not quite that clear cut. Because some most houses are fine but you do get dirty cavities and minute bridges in the dpc here and there.

It is without question something you should sort out because it is relatively cheap and easy to rectify.

The problem you will have if you don't sort it out is the rapid increase in spalling and other damage to both the bricks and mortar below dpc level. Whilst all houses built with a dpc will have constatly damp bricks and mortar below dpc level actually leaving them in lying water will be a real probably come winter cold spells.
 
I dug a trench up the middle of the problem area. It's about 15cm deep and 20cm wide.

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I know this is far from a permanent solution but will it keep water away from the bricks for the short term until I get the landscaper out again?

The landscaper says I would need a perforated drain from the side of the house and a 2nd one to drain from the rear garden if I am going for drainage. These, as pointed out in earlier post would drain into rainwater drain at rear of house. He did say it would require a Y connector, so am glad that ties in with what r896neo said. My question, is it possible to drain 2 perforated drains into one rainwater drain? And if so how is it done?
 
You can get 110mm underground pipe, which is perforated for land drainage purposes. this will connect to the existing underground rainwater drainage using standard 110mm fittings. Backfill trench with gravel to allow water to escape into pipe and away.
 
do yourself a favour though and get the 100mm stuff as it will slide straight into sewer fittings and the connections don't need to be watertight anyway. The 110 despite the name is too big and you have to slit lengths of sewer pipe to sleeve it.
 
Looked into this some more and I have a few questions:

a) what goes at the end of the drainage pipes, ie to stop insects and dirt etc getting in?

b) Does this same material in (a) get used when connecting to downpipe end as well, ie just to limit any unwanted debris?

c) how much drainage gravel is required by metre of drainage pipe?
 
D

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