wiring advice for texecom

wiring my tex premier 24 to 7 PIR's. this is my first alarm install so all very new to me. what is the best way to wire the PIR's? all the cable goes back to the main box (so 7 runs of cable).

am i best in wiring 2X tamper, 2 X alarm and 2 X power

a friend said they have to be wired in 'series' so the tamper works if someone takes the PIR casing off? what is wiring in 'series' and how do i do that?

thanks

also what is EOL / double pole wiring? which do i need and how do i do this

Do you not have the manual for your panel & the one for the PIR?

Everything you need to know is there

yes have manual for both, the panel manual isnt too bad but the PIR (prestige quad) manual is pretty basic.

can anyone confirm which wiring method i need.
thanks

There are plenty of threads on the subject. Search a little.

I gave you a link to the different wiring methods in your other post located here:
//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=234031

Provide a single cable run to each of your sensors, in the case of single pole you have a global tamper. In this case you wire your power with a pair, alarm contacts to a pair and your tampers to the auxiliary tamper. It's the simplest wiring configuration but it has a drawback, your panel can't tell which device set off a tamper.

EOL wiring allows your panel to detect which sensor set off a tamper instead of one global tamper. You should really be using this wiring method, it helps when diagnosing faults to know which device set off a tamper. The schematic is right there in the manual and I'm afraid I can't describe it any better than that.

ok thanks for your help i think im getting there, bit daunting doing it for the first time. i think i need to go down the EOL option. i shall look through the manual again.

thanks again

I am trying to figure this out myself, but here is how I think it works.

First what does wiring in series mean? It means run a wire from the positive feed on the panel to the positive input side on the device, then from the negative return on the device, run that wire to the positive on the next device & repeat until last device on that zone or circuit, then run the wire back to the negative terminal on the panel - creating a 'daisy chain' (same with the 'alarm wire'. But with modern panels you should try to design your layout to use a separate circuit for each area of the property you are trying to protect. Circuit = Zone. Similarly you can daisy chain the tamper circuit in the same way. On both of these the alarm microprocessor sees a low resistance (for normally closed devices) = closed circuit, no intruders, or high/infinite resistance, when either intruder enters or someone cuts the tamper circuit = open circuit = alarm condition.
The thing is that if these wires bridged at any point then you take the device out of the circuit and the microprocessor is none the wiser = no alarm.
(NB some people use one device per zone, but still have one tamper continuous circuit daisy chained at the panel using a mini 'chocolate block connector' = so called global tamper circuit)
So imagine you have that daisy chain of devices, then 'end of line' means wire the resistor at the last device in the chain before the wire comes back to the panel. But if you only have one device per circuit/zone, then each one is at the 'end of the line', so wire each one up with resistors.

How come resistors? Well the microprocessor can be programmed to recognise not just vey low resistance (=normal operation) and extremely high resistance, but values inbetween these extremes. The advantage is that if someone now tries to bridge out the device, the resistance drops and the microprocessor notes that = alarm condition.

Not sure if I have it exactly correct and there must be some other alternatives for circuits with normally open devices etc., and I am not sure why it has to be last device in the chain, or how that protects the preceeding devices in that chain from bridging.

Another thought is that daisy chaining too many devices on one cicuit/zone may exceed the current capacity of that zone, then possibly the devices might not work correctly or you might fry the panel - not sure of consequences.

ps Read the Texecom manual and and when using resistors 'EOL' method, there is one resistor across each PIR (across input & output for the detector, what they call in parallel with the detector), plus one resistor in the Tamper line. PLUS if I have read the diagram correctly the device alarm sensors and the tampers are on single circuit, i.e. in series. The legs of the resistor can serve this function in one detector, then use a link in the others.

ok ive wired it all in now but i keep having the error 'tamper zone 1' etc. i disconnected everything apart from the hall sensor and that is now wired in with 2 power wires , tamper 2 wires and alarm 2 wires. but the keypad is still saying tamper zone 1. the zone is setup as as entry/exit. ive also tried changing it to a guard and guard access zone.

any ideas?

thanks

Can you post a picture of the wiring at the panel end and detector end?

What happens when you join the tamper wires together at the detector end (bypassing the detector terminals)? Also, try linking out the alarm and tamper terminals at the panel on zone 1 and tell us how far you get.

i have not tried bypassing at the PIR stage. i shall try that tomorrow and also take a picture. thanks

In no particular order of likelihood here is what it could be
1. a faulty panel
2. a faulty tamper microswitch
3. a break in one or both of tamper wires
4. a panel programming 'fault/error', e.g. it is set for EOL, and you are giving it a low resistance circuit because you are not including the resistor(s) inline in the tamper circuit and in parallel across the PIR's alarm terminals, but just a plain low resistance circuit.

To test 2 disconnect the existing cable from the PIR & run a short length of alarm cable from the tamper terminals to just outside of the PIR, link up a multimeter on the resistance setting up to the tamper wires. With the PIR case open it should read infinite resistance and with it closed virtually no resistance (unless you have put the EOL resistors, but if so, you can check they reading close to their nominal values with the multimeter).

To test 3 if you are already cabled up, use another length of alarm wire, disconnect both tamper wires at the panel, connect to your dummy cable then check for open circuit at the pir with the multimeter acros the relavent tamper and dummy wires. Open circuit =high resistance, means you need to replace the alarm cable because it has an internal break in it.

If you try all the avenues, and an engineer reset doesn't sort it (EOL issues vs global tamper), then you have a duff panel, which usually is the least likely of the above.

Cheers,

Pedro

i tried today disconnecting the tamper wires on both the pir and the control box and still no joy. also put the tamper wires together twisted as suggested by someone on this site, still no joy.

errors are 'auxillary tamper' and 'tamper zone 1' still coming up. at the moment i have only 1 pir connected. i have put some photos on this link, with some comments in the description. i guess its something simple, any help very appreciated!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/29775004@N05/4837991770/?addedcomment=1#comment72157624602038228

about 5 pics on there

i just spoke to texecom and they said to make sure the device is setup as a normally close device - will try this and see if i have any joy.

Yep you will need to set the zone as normally closed if you are not using EOL resistors. (see the top right of page 34 in the installation manual for this)

As for the aux tamper, just double check the link on the panel is in properly. If this doesn't work, page 42 of the installation manual shows how to disable the aux tamper for now and we can have a look at that later.