Worcester Greenstar 30CDi - No heating..arggghhhhh

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Hi everyone,

Go probably a stupid question and can't work this out.

- Boiler has correct pressure of 1.5 bar
- All rads are bled fully
- Hot water works fine
- If I press the 'boost' button, it starts to heat the rads
- I have the wireless thermostat and when I press to get a higher temp. the stat starts the animated flame and the receiver light goes green.

Am I missing anything stupid? What can I check?

Hope someone can help.

Jason.
 
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sounds like your transmitter has lost signal! which one is it!?

Easy way to test is remove casing and at the control box remove screw on top left hand side. phsically remove the "base " unit from boiler(if its a wb one) you will find that it probably fires up! Its only connected by a low voltage clip! just pull it out. Use the ch (left hand side dial) to control until you can et it repaired / fixed!
 
Thanks boilerdoktor,

When you mean the "base" unit, I take it you mean the whole control panel for the boiler. This boiler has a seperate wireless controller that has another, what I think is a wireless receiver unit inline between the main power switch and the the boiler itself.
 
What boost button?

CHange the batteries and go through the instructions to check or re-establish the link between the transmitter and receiver.
Lack of a low battery symbol means nothing!
 
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Chris,

There is a CH boost button (man with a hat holding a ladder) on the boiler itself. If that is engaged, I get heating.

I know the link works on the receiver as when the animated flame starts on the tranmitter the a green light appears and you can hear the receiver switch.

I am thinking of changing the T/R dip switches so that they match on another sequence

Jason.
 
I know the link works on the receiver as when the animated flame starts on the transmitter the a green light appears and you can hear the receiver switch.
Some basic info please.

1. Make and exact model of boiler?

2. Make and model of wireless stat?

If the boiler is not a combi (instant hot water):

1. How many motorized valves and what type?

2. Is there a cylinder thermostat?
 
Thanks D_Hailsham

The boiler is a WB Greenstar 30CDi Combi

Wireless stat is an Altech ALTHC014(TX)

Cheers,
Jason.
 
There is a CH boost button (man with a hat holding a ladder)

That might not be a boost button but an engineering facility to test the boiler
 
Hi mate.

The boost button is to put the boiler into high fire and test, it will run on high fire when illuminated for about 15 mins. It will then revert back!

If you use this and getting hot rads then stepper motor (diverter valve ) is working and the fault is that there is NO demand so a prob exists with your clock/stat.

If you are competent remove the wires to LS AND LR and link with a piece of wire. your boiler will work constantly and you can use the left hand stat to control heat/turn off until you can get someone to look at the clock!
 
Thanks boilerdoktor,

Can you just confirm, do I link the wires LS and LR together or link the terminals that they were in? I presume the latter but just need confirmation.

If this resolves the issue, I take it that the receiver is at fault?

Jason
 
within the terminal pal and for ease of use the green block just pulls out ! let us know how you get on! Properly isolate it!
 
Hi Boilerdoktor,

The component does not have LS or LR labeled and although I think I'm right in what I'm doing, I'm not 100% and don't want to overload and blow the boiler.


Sorry that the image is out of focus.

I presume, and I hope that I'm right, that by connecting the bottom of the red link wire to the grey is the correct solution?

Thanks in advance.
 
Fantastic,

Thanks D_Hailsham and Boilerdoktor.

Now, I presume if I have CH, the fault lies with the wireles thermostat switch?

At least we can be warm if it get's cold again!
 

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