Pipe freezing spray

MarkSmith · 22 Nov 2010

Hi folks,

I have to disconnect the four pipes leading to two radiators in order to re-route them. I'm looking at pipe freezers to avoid having to drain down.

Screwfix sell a "Pipe Freezing Kit 220ml" for £10, which will do one freeze. I will do them one at a time. Do I simply need four of these kits?
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/13369/Plumbing/Pipe-Freezing-Kits/Pipe-Freezing-Kit-220ml

Or can I use one, plus their "Commercial Pipe Freezing Refill 700g"? I gather the 700g refill gives ~7 freezes, so at £20 it's £3 a freeze rather than £10 - if it is compatible with the jacket in the kit.
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/13915/Plumbing/Pipe-Freezing-Kits/Commercial-Pipe-Freezing-Refill-700g

(One kit + 1 refil is only £10 cheaper than 4 kits, but I get 4 "free" freezes which are bound to be useful later.)

Thanks!
-Mark

45yearsagasman · 22 Nov 2010

It would be cheaper and safer to drain down..do the work..and refill the system adding some inhibitor than faff around with a micky mouse freezer kit. About £12-15 for inhibitor.

clearhead · 22 Nov 2010

i agree with the gas man
pipe freeze kits can be great and save time in lots of circumstances
but if you are not carefull could get you into trouble

if you do go down freeze road-make sure heatings powerd down-towels & isolation valves at the ready-and if cutting pipes use new pipe slice for speed-and its worth using a vent & cold feed bung kit for added help

MarkSmith · 23 Nov 2010

Thanks both for the replies. I should have made it clearer that all I need to do at this stage is to cut the feeds to the rads and cap them on the system side. (I considered doing it without even freezing, and just lose a couple of litres of water - but that really could go wrong

) Does that still sound risky with freezing kits?

Later on I'll need to do a second phase which will involve more disconnecting and more cutting, and I think I'll need to drain down then for sure.

chr15 · 23 Nov 2010

MarkSmith said:
Thanks both for the replies. I should have made it clearer that all I need to do at this stage is to cut the feeds to the rads and cap them on the system side. (I considered doing it without even freezing, and just lose a couple of litres of water - but that really could go wrong ) Does that still sound risky with freezing kits?

Later on I'll need to do a second phase which will involve more disconnecting and more cutting, and I think I'll need to drain down then for sure.

You can lose a hell of a lot of water by cutting into live heating pipes, if you live on a farm with old stone floors then go for it but if you have carpets then I would be using a bung kit if its open vent.

Or failing that just drain it down, only take a few minutes, save a lot of mess

MarkSmith · 23 Nov 2010

chr15 said:
You can lose a hell of a lot of water by cutting into live heating pipes, if you live on a farm with old stone floors then go for it but if you have carpets then I would be using a bung kit if its open vent.

It's in a (currently unconverted) cellar so actually a bit of water on the floor wouldn't be a problem...

...but I'm getting the impression draining it down is the way to go anyway. The header tank is a #$@%! to access (to tie up the ball valve) unfortunately - part of the reason I'm trying to avoid this. But it sounds like it might be the lesser of two evils.

Thanks!
-Mark

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Pipe freezing spray

MarkSmith

45yearsagasman

clearhead

MarkSmith

chr15

MarkSmith

DIYnot Local

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