Raising height of PVC door?

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Armagh
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Our back door is PVC and just about cleared our floor tiles by a millimeter or two. However, we've had to lift all of the tiles due to a pipe leak and so before replacing the tiles we have to add a self leveling screed the floor. Therefore, when the new tiles are laid the floor level will rise.

My question is, can I raise the height of my PVC door? If so, is it a job for a reasonably competent DIYer like myself, or should I get the PVC company to have a look at it? The house is only 4 year old.

Here's some pics of the door:
DSC04660.JPG


Here's one of the hinges (there are 3 of them in total):
DSC04661.JPG


And I've also noticed these 'spacer' type thingys on the top of the door frame. There are none of these on the bottom though:
DSC04666.JPG


Would I be right in saying that I can simply raise the height of the door by adjusting the underside of each hinge equally, removing the spacers from the top of the door frame and place them on the bottom, and then make sure I adjust the locking mechanism to ensure the door still locks?
 
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The only way is to raise the whole frame which will be limited because the above lintel, although I have done this by trimming the top upvc frame but depending how much you want to trim off, what most people do is to chop out a section for a door mat to the same level as the floor so the door can open then you start the tiles from the edge of the mat onwards with a slight step or slope which shouldn't be noticeable
 
The only way is to raise the whole frame which will be limited because the above lintel, although I have done this by trimming the top upvc frame but depending how much you want to trim off, what most people do is to chop out a section for a door mat to the same level as the floor so the door can open then you start the tiles edge of the mat onwards with a slight step or slope which shouldn't be noticeable
Drat. So if there is no way to do this then what are the spacers for at the top of the door frame and why then are there allen key sockets on the underside of each of the hinges? What do these adjust?
 
They have to be adjustable to fit neatly inside the frame because you cannot shave it off like wooden doors etc.

Do you really need to use self leveling compound?
 
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They have to be adjustable to fit neatly inside the frame because you cannot shave it off like wooden doors etc.

Do you really need to use self leveling compound?
Yes, as there is no way to remove the old tile adhesive.
 
You can pry the 'spacers' out and bin them - they're anly transit packers and serve no useful purpose whatsoever. Adjust the allen key underneath all 3 hinges to the max (positive rotation) and see how that is. If thats no good, lift off the sash (door)... yes, it will lift off in the open position :LOL: remove the frame and plane 8~9mm off the head - the depth of the wings, but unscrew any screws that hold the reinforcement inside the section or you'll f**k your planer blades up. Put the screws back in. You'll have to be careful now because the sash may not have enough clearance to drop back on to the male part attached to the frame, especially if you have a tiled reveal, so jack the frame up by the amount you removed so the head is tight outside, then try and hang the sash back on. If it goes and the sweep of the door is ok, you've cracked it. If not, hang the sash then jack up the frame (more difficult due to weight) an re-fix. If none of this works, resort to previous posts - the floor digout bit. Good Luck
 
They have to be adjustable to fit neatly inside the frame because you cannot shave it off like wooden doors etc.

Do you really need to use self leveling compound?
Yes, as there is no way to remove the old tile adhesive.
I have a bosch multi-cutter and a rigid scraper for removing tile adhesive.

Might be an idea to invest in the tool rather than pay for self leveling compound
 

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