Painting over varnish

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theplayer

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I need to paint over much deep mahogany coloured balustrades, skirting boards etc on the stairs and was wondering which is the best way to approach it. I understand that I can't go straight on top with gloss paint as it will just chip, so I am wondering what the best approach is to preparation ? The balustrades are very finicky so they would be difficult to sand down - is ther an alternative ?

Any help mush appreciated ?
 
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If your intent on not sanding to provide a key, then you will need to apply products like Zinnser Bullseye 123, or Dulux Super Grip Primer as your first coat. Yet I have to say if I was asked to offer advice on this subject I would point you in a different direction, as i've known these types of systems fail on a substrate such as yours.

Dec.
 
What would be the alternative direction then ? I've not started yet, so am open to suggestions....
 
The most important thing here is to provide a key so you will need abrade the surface with around 180 grit taking care not to breakthrough the varnish, as this is also acting as a natural knotting agent.

Then you will need to apply an alkyd based undercoat as your first coat, Dulux Trade Undercoat is without doubt the best, when dry lightly sand and dust off and apply another coat. Then after prep you are ready to apply your finish coats.

If however you intend to apply a Satin finish then after following the advice on prep, you could forget the undercoat and apply Dulux Trade Satinwood as the binder here is also alkyd.

Any alkyd based paints would be ok but I feel Dulux Trade to be superior,
more work perhaps but a professional approach. I know many may not agree but we should never forget the excellent grip and and hold of these paint systems.

Dec.
 
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One thing, if you decide on the satinwood route, this also would be at least a two coat system.

Dec.
 
That makes sense, more than happy to go down this route and do the job properly. I wouldn't be looking for a satin finish, just a regular gloss.

Couple of questions whilst I have your attention, and being a relative newbie always looking to improve his technique ;)

- Whats the best approach to sanding those tricky detail bits on balustrades and the like ? My detail sander wont get in there so is it case of just folding up piece of small sanpaper and doing it that way ?

- Slightly unrelated, but I have also recently been glossing a lot of the doors in my house and the skirting boards. As they are already glossed I just sanded them applied a coat of gloss, sanded again and applied a second coat. Looks great, but I am wondering if I have made a mistake by not using undercoat ?

- Trade vs retail paint ? I'm currently using normal dulux... would i be better of switching to the trade version ?

Thanks for the advice so far


Ben.
 
When ever I have to paint over dark stained woodwork I find this to be the best way forward. Light sand, wash down with sugarsoap and rinse, when dry apply a coat of zinsser B.I.N. , undercoat, light sand and a coat of crown solo gloss/satin.
 
To provide a good key on balustrades you really dont need a detail sander or hours of tedious sanding, all you need to do is flat back the surface and remove the shine. Providing you are useing an oil based product you could use wirewool, "Never attempt this method if useing a waterbased paint".

Applying a liquid gloss over an already cured gloss system can sometimes cause the new paint system to craze, yet I think you have been fortunate here and that doesnt appear to have happened.

The much asked question with regard to trade vs retail, simply, trade is better. Retail products are aimed at the diy market and they dont have the opacity of their trade counterparts, trade paints achieve better covering power and allow the decorator to thin them down in a manor to paint different substrates in order to produce the correct finish.

Ben.

I hope these points will answer some of your concerns.

Dec.
 
I guess I'll keep on sanding then :(

I've sanded back to the wood in most places to remove stain on the wall string of the stairs and gloss off the door-lining and architrave.

I've been going at it with P60 paper with some success. I'll now have to fill the nicks with wood-filler, fill the gaps between the architrave and door-lining with caulk and go over the lot with P120 paper before applying Dulux Trade Primer & Undercoat (waterbased) and finishing with Dulux Diamond Satinwood (waterbased).

Hopefully I'll finish in time for the relatives to comment on how good it looks over Xmas :LOL:
 
Strange one for you here but true.
Went to a job once where the customer had sanded then glossed straight over half of the stained woodwork in her house. The other bits she had undercoated first then glossed. The bits that she had only put gloss on with no uc did not chip at all when knocked, the undercoated bits did. I have never done this myself but it does make me think about trying it sometime. Bit like when painting plastic gutters - only use gloss and never uc, uc dries too hard for plastic.
 
Yes it is most important thing here is to provide a key. so you will need abrade the surface with around 180 grit taking care not to breakthrough the varnish, as this is also acting as a natural knotting agent. and this topic is very useful for us and you also go to the <a href="http://blackanddeckerblenderparts.com">black and decker blender parts</a> the biggest travel related web portal in tha world.
 
TheDec said:
One thing, if you decide on the satinwood route, this also would be at least a two coat system.

Dec.
Click to expand...

Firm counsel! I am Abner Wright, newbie. I think 2 coats are sufficient for accurate color and permanence. If using wood primer also then 1 coat can also accomplish needs.
 
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