are crossbattens stronger than running battens along joist

Joined
14 Dec 2010
Messages
1
Reaction score
0
Location
London
Country
United Kingdom
i want to put down a new floor in my loft, after removing an old brittle chipboard one. my loft is 1904 end terrace and is supported with purlins in the center of each pitched roof plane ( although these are not sunk into the party wall or end gable wall) with supports running from them to the center load bearing wall in a v formation. three v's in all. one at each end and a central v.
the 4"x2" cieling joists run front to back joining over the center wall. the joists are aprox 12ft from back to center, and 13ft from front to center. these are slightly higher in the center over the wall and slope away to each external wall.
i want to floor this to store some heavy ish stuff, my record collection which is huge, and some speakers etc...
what i want to know is, does running a 2"x2" along each joist to raise and level the floor add more strenght than running the battens crossways to form a grid, or the other way round.
on the first method i would screw the 2"x2" battens along the joists every foot, effectivly adding 2 inches to the top of each joist, and would then screw down the 8'x2' 18mm ply over this at right angles to the joists, giving a solid platform.
however, due to the rafters dropping onto a 2"x2" beam, which sits on top of the ends of all of the cieling joists, (which in turn sits on top of the external load bearing walls, front and back), i cannot run the new battens onto the load bearing wall at either end, so they would, in effect, only be screwed to the top of each rafter just shy of the load bearing walls at each end, and would only be supported by a load bearing wall in the center of the loft space..
the other method, to fix the battens crossways ontop of the joists, would mean less points of contact over each joist, being only at the intersections between the joist and batten. this would be screwed and then the 8'x2' 18mm ply floor screwed to the crossbattening to form a solid platform. these crossbattens would not be over any load bearing walls as they would run parrellel to all three load bearing walls and would not be attached at either end to the party wall, or the end gable(?) wall with chimney.
i would also be interested to know if raising the cieling joists by 2" with battening would add more strenghth than if i just floored the joists as they are..

i am also thinking of removing the purlins central pair of 'v' shaped bracing (from mid way up the pitch on each roof plane, to the central load bearing wall), and instead bracing across the apex of the rafters and running triangulations from the centre of the purlins to the party wall and end gable at cieling level, with additional 2"x2"vertical supports dropping to a horizontal beam 6"x2" running from party wall to end gable, ontop of the cieling joists, supported at each end by joist hangers bolted to the walls. this would give me space to move around and open up the area. if i brace each end of the purlins to the end walls with heavy duty bracketing also then will this be enough support to remove the 'v' shaped central support. any help would be really helpful . thanks.
 
Sponsored Links
Sorry I couldn't get my head around that lot..however...

Screwing 2x2 at right angles to the existing joists (forming a grid) is the best method to raise the floor, this will distribute the loads more evenly, leave space for slightly deeper insulation and allow you to work around cables and pipes. *for storage purposes only*

Your other suggestion is a BIG no no.
You should always seek advice from a structural engineer before removing or altering any part of your roof structure.

There are various consequences of ignoring the last bit, and they are all very bad.

oh, and welcome to the forum :)
 
Like Deluks says cross batten is recommended.. but neither will add strength to the structure just make it easier to get things level and get more insulation in..

To reitterate dont mess with the roof structure without professional advice from someone whos viewed the roof..
 
I just had a similar dilemma - my ceiling joists are 3x2 and I wanted to board for storage.

I spoke to a joiner I know and he said definitely to put the new timber in the same direction as the old. Screw and glue is best. Then add Noggins for strength in the other direction.

Basically imagine you wanted to bend a thick bit of wood - to do so you cut notches in it to make it easy to bend. If you put your new timber across the old, then it's like having 6x6 beams, but with really wide 2 inch deep notches cut into it in one direction, and really wide 4 inch deep notches cut into it in the other direction. This makes it pretty flexible both ways. If you don't support your new timber at both ends you haven't really gained anything.

Whereas, fastening them in the same direction gives you 6 inch joists, then adding noggins stops it flexing the other way.

In the end for me - I had a ceiling binder in the way, so I ended up putting a new floor in above this with 6 inch joists so it is totally independent of the ceiling.

Main thing for me was to avoid cracking the ceiling. In our last pace I boarded the loft and only used 4 inch joists, but again I lifted my joists up above the ceiling joists so they were not putting weight on the ceiling at all. With these timbers it was a bit "bouncy" but if it's just storage space then it's not a big deal.

As a disclaimer - I'm just a DIYer, not a pro. Take everything I say with a pinch of salt
 
Sponsored Links
Oh as an extra - you probably should have 8 or 9 inches of insulation in your loft - so you probably want your floor level at least this high off your ceiling and if you haven't got this much insulation then maybe it's worth putting it in before you put your boards down.

Phil
 
Structurally, fixing the 2x2 battens along the tops of the existing joists will give a slightly enhanced strength; running them at right-angles will do nothing to add to the strength.
 
The deflection of a beam is proportional to the FORTH power of its depth, i.e. going from 4" high to 8" high ( X2) results in a 16 fold increase in "strength" of the beam , or put it another way 1/16 of the deflection with the same load.
The problem is to fool the old beam that its got another 2" of depth, use the best glue (NOT PVA) and nail it if possible every 6" or so, if too stressful, second best is a 4" screw every 12".
Frank
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top