300mm wide Oak door lining

I brought 4 new solid Oak doors and door linings from a on line “oak door specialist”

1 of the doors required a 300mm wide lining, no problem they listed them. Place order delivery made and it became obvious that the 300mm wide one is 2 150mm wide planks joined together. Now not only could you see the join but where the 2 pieces were joined there is a dip between the 2 planks not good.

Called up the company said no way can you get a 300mm wide plank so they have to be joined, they will get another one sent, told them of the issues they said we will have a word with the carpenter.

Cut a long story short got a phone call late last Saturday evening from the delivery guy saying he was at our house trying to make delivery but we were out, told him to leave it safe in the outside toilet.

Anyway got home and guess what it’s the same as the other one! Called company up on Monday told them, they will get back to me.
Today they have sent me a email with some poor quality photos from the carpenter of the 3rd lining and you can clearly see they have filled the “dip” with wood filler.

I know i have gone on a bit but i have searched but cannot find any 300 mm wide solid Oak door linings, does anyone know if they are available.

It's highly unlikey to get a single piece lining , not impossible if you really want but it'll cost you and then be prone to cupping and warping at that width so the company are correct in what they say .
However, why they can't supply one with a decent joint baffles me.
If you want a lining without any kind of joint and which remains stable you could always consider oak faced ply.

300mm is wide for oak these days. English oak is difficult to come by, and so most oak is French, which is perfectly OK, but it is sawed "through and through" and a lot of it seems to be from very near the outside of the tree, with the end grain running across the width of the timber rather than through the thickness which is best. Moisture content is variable in my experience. American oak tends to suffer from similar problems, but seems to be generally dried better.
If you really must have 300 mm wide then you either need to get well dried timber properly joined, in which case there should be no problem, or (assuming you're using English / European oak) get quarter sawn oak from a specialist who will be able to supply boards with 300 mm "clear" (of sap and edge faults). This will need to have the waney edge (sap and bark) cut off, and be machined by someone who has the experience, and the machinery to work oak. It's an expensive way to go.
Personally I'd go with the idea of using oak faced ply.

Thanks all for taking the time to reply.

Don't know too much about "oak faced ply" i can see how the face is oak, but what about the edges? As i may need to plane them down to say 295 mm and i guess i would lose the oak

You can either get iron on veneer to match from the company who sell the ply, or for best quality work use solid wood lippings. Last time I did some I made the lippings 10 mm thick if I remember right. Lot of work that way though, and you need to get the solid wood back to the level of the veneer, which either needs a specialised tool, which is a sort of planer with very fine adjustment for depth, or very careful hand work. Oak is tricky to work too if you're not used to it. Hand planes need to be razor sharp with the finest possible mouth setting.

Paul348 said:

Don't know too much about "oak faced ply" i can see how the face is oak, but what about the edges? As i may need to plane them down to say 295 mm and i guess i would lose the oak

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With any faced ply it's just that a facing . There isn't anything on the edge. I'm assuming that wheather you use ply or solid boards you'll have some sort of moulding or architrave in the same way as you would with a regular lining so the edge of the panel would be hidden.
One other option that you may consider is to use narrower boards jointed in the middle but use a bead mould where they met, i.e. the old adage about "if you can't hide a joint make a feature of it". Might not be what you had in mind but just an idea.

Ok just to bring this back up, been looking here from some Oak faced ply
http://www.slhardwoods.co.uk/SheetMaterialsOrder.aspx?ID=42

And was looking at this edging
http://www.slhardwoods.co.uk/produc...ing-WhiteOakWoodEdging2mm-PREGLUED-31680.aspx

But needs this nice edging tool
http://www.slhardwoods.co.uk/Produc...anders--Trimmers-VirutexEdgeBander-18708.aspx

Now i know this looks expensive but i have 10 doors to do and around the same in window sills.

Has anyone used such a tool and what was the finish like IE can you tell it has a edge bonded onto the wood ?

The tool is just a heat gun which takes a roll of edge tape , has no effect on the finish, thats achieved by careful sanding on edges, personally I would just use an iron. I used a scalpel to trim the edging tape on some walnut shelving I made and then finished with fine sand paper.

foxhole said:

The tool is just a heat gun which takes a roll of edge tape , has no effect on the finish, thats achieved by careful sanding on edges, personally I would just use an iron. I used a scalpel to trim the edging tape on some walnut shelving I made and then finished with fine sand paper.

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Thanks for the reply Mr Fox

I understand that the tool is just used to apply the edging but the suppler says you must use an edging tool to apply the 2mm thick stuff.

What i was getting at was when you have applied the edging and trimmed back and sanded it and applied a wax/oil can you tell it’s a piece of plywood with a edge stuck on ? Or does it look like a sold piece of oak?

I have ordered 1 sheet of ply and the 2mm edging and will try and apply it without out the use of £500 tool, will try with a Iron 1st and see how i go.

Thanks for your reply

make sure the base of the iron is clean,otherwise you may end up marking the trim.

They will cut your timber to size and apply the edging for you, maybe a much better option?
I don't know how much heat will penetrate the 2mm oak, you could try removing the glue using heat and a scraper, and then simply using contact adhesive and holding the edging on with masking tape.

Was in there today, they are soon to be introducing another intermediate thickness of tape, about 1mm which can be applied with an iron. The white melamine example I saw looks very neat.

Probably should have ordered the standard edging, this goes on easy and the edge finish is convincing and looks like a real plank of wood. (to those uneducated in such matters)
Might not be too late to contact them before your order is shipped.

Best finish can be achieved by a light sanding, oiling straight on and sanding the dust back in with the oil.