Shower cycling hot/cold

Joined
9 May 2005
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Derby
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United Kingdom
I have a Gainsborough 400X which has started cycling hot / cold. No discernable difference in volume flow during this cycling. Have noticed over the past few weeks the temp getting hotter on the same temp setting. Any ideas?
 
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Heater can getting furred up - overheats, safety cutout operates, water cools down, safety cutout closes, cycle repeats.

Can you stop it doing this by using a lower heat setting, or a higher flow rate?

How old is the shower?

Hard water area?
 
ban-all-sheds said:
Heater can getting furred up - overheats, safety cutout operates, water cools down, safety cutout closes, cycle repeats.

Can you stop it doing this by using a lower heat setting, or a higher flow rate?

If I alter the flow rate round to a hotter setting, the water flow almost stops completely.....

How old is the shower?

Don't know - it was in when I moved in which was a year ago last Sept.

Hard water area?

Derby - which I think is medium....

If it's the heater furred up do I need to buy a new heater or an entire new unit?

Thanks for the response by the way.....
 
new heater would cost most of the cost of a new shower.

By the way, every single electric shower in the country has been getting hotter over the last few weeks. Pavement heats up due to sunlight > water pipe underground heats up > incoming water hotter. Nothing wrong with the shower in this respect. :rolleyes:
 
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iirc the effect of warmer incoming water will be more flow rather than higher temperatures if you don't change the setting as electric showers change the flow rate to achive the desired temperature
 
Some do.

Some vary the amount of heating applied.

A great many just have a manual tap.
 
crafty1289 said:
new heater would cost most of the cost of a new shower.

yes on the other hand if you can get a new heater can then you just have to replace it

if you get a new shower then unless you can get one IDENTICAL to the old one then there is a good chance you will have to do quite some messing around to get the connections in the right place.
 
If I take the heat exchanger / heating element off, can I descale it in any way? - eg kettle descaler?

Or is this just blatantly stupid?
 
Worth a try, but it'll probably take a while, as there's a lot of heating element and not much water space inside.
 
Well - definitely improved it....

Disconnected and took the heater out, drained all the water out of it and then filled it with Scale Away. Left it about 1 & 1/2 hours then drained it and refitted it. As i drained out the scale away it was a purple colour - dunno what that means but anyway should keep it going for a little while longer...
Also the dumbass who fitted the shower didn't tile the wall and then drill holes to fit the shower... oh no! that would be too easy...they seemed to have fitted the shower and then tiled up to the edge of it and silicone sealed it - as someone on here said, if I need to get a new shower in the future not only do i need to make sure the connections are in the same place but that the shell is EXACTLY the same size..... still moving in 2 years so hopefully it will last till then with repeated descaling.

THANKS FOR ALL THE ADVICE, PEOPLE.

Cheers
Rob
 
If you use a plumbers descaler, based on sulphamic acid, or orthophosphoric acid, or malic and citric acids, you'll get the job done very quickly. It may take more than one filling though, becasue as suggested above there isn't much volume there. It works quite well if you can get a flow going - I know one guy who uses a pump-up plant squirter for the tap water side of combi boilers.
You'll have to read the label to find out what's in the "Fernox" products for example. If all it claims is surfactants, don't bother with it.

Hydrochloric acid works too, but is unnecessarily dangerous, and sulphuric acid is not suitable.
 

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