Warped door

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I have a 110 year old house that still has the original doors ( pine panel doors) after removing all the paint and varnish from them ( I did not get them dipped ) ,One of them has developed quite a severe warp, Its twisted so that when the top is against the frame the bottom is a good 4 cm away. The frame is plumb and square. Is there any easy way to unbend it without resorting to professional help?
 
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proffesional help wont sort it in fact you will be very very lucky to move it

i will assume it has been stored wrongly

the only suggestion in to take it off lay flat prop up the edges weight it till it goes about 25mm the other way

or without taking it down a bit off 2x2 clamped top and bottom with a block off wood to push in the opposit direction

if nothing happens after a week or so try spraying lightly with water twice a day

but in general your stuffed with a low chance off it working :cry:
 
Years ago I was on a site where several doors had developed a twist . The day before handover I was asked by the site agent to wedge all these doors the opposite way. Then on the day of the sign over I was to watch for the architects and clients cars coming down the drive and run around taking off all the wedges and props. The twist had pretty much "disappeared" and the building signed off but the next day as we attened to a couple of little snags the warps reappeared. Not perhaps very proffesional but not my decision :oops:
So as biggy says you are probably not going to get the twist out, sorry.
 
I know this one!

If it is an old panelled door (usually 4 or 6 panels tongued into place, or held by mouldings, and the stiles and ?mullions? are mortice and tenon jointed) and you have stripped the paint off:

make sure the hinges and frame are well fixed because you will be putting some force on them.

Open the door, and stand on the side of it where the top is leaning away from you, and the bottom is warped towards you

Put your foot firmly on the floor against the foot of the door

Take hold of the top of the door, and pull it hard towards you. You should hear old paint and glue crack, and the door will bend towards you. The old paint and glue will usually hold it in position, though it will spring back a bit when you let go. If it is a heavy, solid, 2-inch door in what was an expensive large house , you will need a lot of strength. If it is a lighter, inch-and-a-half mass produced Victorian door in a small house, it will be easier.

If you bend it too far, go round the other side and pull the top back the other way a bit.

If you have not stripped the paint off where the panels are grooved into place, the old paint may stop it flexing. You will usually see old paint, or bare wood, around some of the edges of the panels where they have moved in their grooves, after you have racked it.
 
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I know this one!

If it is an old panelled door (usually 4 or 6 panels tongued into place, or held by mouldings, and the stiles and ?mullions? are mortice and tenon jointed) and you have stripped the paint off:

make sure the hinges and frame are well fixed because you will be putting some force on them.

Open the door, and stand on the side of it where the top is leaning away from you, and the bottom is warped towards you

Put your foot firmly on the floor against the foot of the door

Take hold of the top of the door, and pull it hard towards you. You should hear old paint and glue crack, and the door will bend towards you. The old paint and glue will usually hold it in position, though it will spring back a bit when you let go. If it is a heavy, solid, 2-inch door in what was an expensive large house , you will need a lot of strength. If it is a lighter, inch-and-a-half mass produced Victorian door in a small house, it will be easier.

If you bend it too far, go round the other side and pull the top back the other way a bit.

If you have not stripped the paint off where the panels are grooved into place, the old paint may stop it flexing. You will usually see old paint, or bare wood, around some of the edges of the panels where they have moved in their grooves, after you have racked it.

That describes my doors exactly, they are the thinner versions.
I will give it a go as soon as Her Indoors goes shopping later in the week.
 
IF YOU COULD CLAMP IT TO A LEVEL SURFACE AND SOAK THE DOOR EDGE WITH WATER, LEAVE IT FOR A FEW DAYS (APPLY WATER EACH DAY). THIS MIGHT TAKE OUT SOME OF THE TWIST, BUT PROBABLY WILL NEVER BE THE SAME. COULD YOU POSSIBLY MAKE ALTERATIONS TO THE FRAME TO SUIT THE DOOR. THIS COULD ASTETICALLY IMPROVE THE SITUATION!
 
I gave it a great big heave the other day and the joints all went "crack" now it pretty much fits the hole. the joints are a bit loose though.
 

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