Replacing pump

A

adam01

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I've read a few posts on here about replacing a pump, so I have a good idea already. At least I know my heavily corroded mess will not be a simple swap.

I'm replacing a Myson cp53 with a Grundfos 15/50. I've read on here to grease the pump thread (Silicone Grease) to aid in future removal\ maintenance. Is this standard practice\necessary, or just a good thing to do?
If so, where can I buy it?

I'm looking to replace the pump values (gate type) because they're corroded and the spindle is now dripping, and they're probably stuck to the pump.

Apart from being 22mm size, are they all roughly the same shape\ size? They have no obvious markings apart from 'made in italy' (the house is about 12 years old). Is there a particular brand that fit nicely with the grudfos rubber washer?

Thanks.
 
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silicone grease is good practice, can be brought from plumbers merchants etc.

i prefer gate valves over ball type.


ps glad you said that joe i typed it round the wrong way :rolleyes:
 
But gate valves impede the water flow less don't they?
 
It is good that you intend to replace the valves also. Undoing the old valves from the pump thread would be harder than loosening the compression nuts joining the valves to the pipework.
 
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I agree with Axel Jo, If you intend to change the valve if you put a screw driver near the isolation points you have justnow it would leak without you touching it, they r absolutly terrible.
If your concerned about water flow go for the 15/60 grundfos over the 15/50 exact same striaght foward way to install.

Simple enough drain down and replacement job the hard bit may be the airlocks/choked cold feed which may follow when you try to refill but thats the chance you take unless you bung the expansion tank and dont fully drain it.

Ray
 
seco services said:
silicone grease is good practice, can be brought from plumbers merchants etc.

i prefer gate valves over ball type.


ps glad you said that joe i typed it round the wrong way :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

A|re you saying that you now agree with Joe90 that a ball type pump valve is better than a gate valve?

ARE YOU MAD? The fact that joe thinks a ball valve is better than a gate valve should tell you the exact opposite! The guy knows nothing.
 
Thanks for the tips guys. No need to start bashing each other. It's clear there was a mistake about valve type and the post edited. I think we all agree that gate valves are preferred.
 
can someone tell me why ball valves arent better than gate valves?

as gate valves seem to seize up and fail to work after a period of time, esp the red handled ones you find in airing cupboards.

a ball valve (to me) seems less likely to do that and give full flow, if you fit the right ones.
 
Open and close them a few times usually sorts it. Gets the calcium carbonate deposits off.
 
xr4x4 said:
can someone tell me why ball valves arent better than gate valves?

as gate valves seem to seize up and fail to work after a period of time, esp the red handled ones you find in airing cupboards.

a ball valve (to me) seems less likely to do that and give full flow, if you fit the right ones.
Click to expand...

Look down the end of one when you open and close it (in the shop). Ball valves are restrictive.
 
...and you've saved yourself a few bob.
 
D

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