Honeywell Room Thermostat advice

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I picked up a Honeywell T6360 as a replacement for a very tired and tatty looking brown/biege Honeywell thermostat that was in place when I moved in. The old one was wired as follows: Blue to 2, Red to 1 and Yellow to 3.

I wired the 6360 the same and whilst the heating works ok my hot water doesn't...the 4043H motorized valve doesn't open and the boiler doesn't fire. I can latch the 4043 open and get hot water when the heating is on but not without. Have I missed something obvious?

Thanks in advance.
 
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What was the make and model of the old one? Is there any diagrams on it?
 
I would imagine that in connecting the new stat you have dislodged the neutral (blue wire) to the valve motor.

Thanks but no wires are dislodged at the stat end and I haven't touched the valve end. The three wires (blue, red and yellow) were put to the same numbererd terminals on the new stat as they were on the old. I've since replaced the old stat and the hot water works ok. Unless I'm unlucky enough to have bought a faulty T6360, they must wire differently but the three wiring diagrams on the instruction leaflet don't relate with what I have already. Keep the old stat some may say, and yes it works ok but it doesn't look ok.
 
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What was the make and model of the old one? Is there any diagrams on it?

Honeywell but no model number on it. It's beige with a dark brown backplate, the dial is offset slightly to the left and it's the same size as the T6360 .

There is a small wiring diagram inside the cover: L > 1, N > 2, N > Load? > 3, N > Load? > 4 (which is switched in the stat to 3 [feed off 1])
 
What was the make and model of the old one? Is there any diagrams on it?

Honeywell but no model number on it. It's beige with a dark brown backplate, the dial is offset slightly to the left and it's the same size as the T6360 .
I have one of those!!! Did yours used to fizzle just before it fired up the heating? Keeping mine for sentimental value till it conks out or I get a combi boiler :LOL: Its at least 21 years old - system was fited in '89.

By the way, how do you remove the cover? Brute force and ignorance?
 
All a bit odd because the hw circuit is not reliant on the room stat, disconnect the room stat completely and the hw should still work.

Not always, often the HW is enabled via the room thermostat and disabled when the thermostat demands central heating.
 
I will conceed to that MOST systems are that the CH is enabled by the cylinder stat and that far less often is the HW is enabled by the room stat.
 
Thanks for the suggestions and comments.....the problem appears solved.

I took the very old brown ST699 programmer apart and found two loose solders on the hw side. This could've occurred when trying to remove the unit from the backplate....as the two tangs at the bottom are extremely difficult to release through the tiny slots. This meant that it had to be prised apart, though it would appear that I wasn't gentle enough.

And Steve, I've never noticed a fizzle from the old stat.
 
What was the make and model of the old one? Is there any diagrams on it?

Honeywell but no model number on it. It's beige with a dark brown backplate, the dial is offset slightly to the left and it's the same size as the T6360 .

There is a small wiring diagram inside the cover: L > 1, N > 2, N > Load? > 3, N > Load? > 4 (which is switched in the stat to 3 [feed off 1])


QUESTION ?
Is the 1,2 and 3 always the same on all room stats..looking at the wring diagram i have from here, on it is a Honeywell T6360B ..where i have a Danfoss TP5.

so the question is ..are 1,2 and 3 universal in their meaning, eg 1,2 and three are the same connections on on all makes ..asuming you are wiring the same scheme on any of them.

all the best.markj
 

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