Halogen Lamps

I am planning on redecorating my hall and would like to change the current pendent light fitting for some flush mounted halogen lamps. I know that the joists would run perpendicular to the cable, so my question is could this job actually be done without lifting floorboards upstairs?

Also, how would you decide how many lamps to use, and the best positions for them?

Thanks

LooPrEvil said:

Also, how would you decide how many lamps to use, and the best positions for them?

Thanks

Click to expand...

You might like to do a forum search on downlighters - you will find it illuminating (which is more than can be said for the downlighters )

LooPrEvil said:

could this job actually be done without lifting floorboards upstairs?

Click to expand...

Absolutely - it just involves pulling the ceiling down instead of lifting floorboards.

If you plan a line of downlighters going the same way as the joists, ie in a continuous void, then yes, you can do it without lifting floorboards or chopping ceiling. Drill out for the downlighters, then feed the cable from each to the next (assuming you can pick up the power feed from the present ligh fitting in the same line). If the joists run across your lighting line then you'd have to chop out lumps of ceiling (or lift the upstairs floorboards) so you can get to the joists and drill through them for the cable.

PJ

Halogen downlights? Ooh that's soooooo last century

howtowire said:

Find answers and ask questions direct at [link removed]

For more information on [link removed]

Click to expand...

[link removed]

Question:
What is the formula for calculating the voltage drop for a set length cable and how to i work out what the maximum length cable is my circuit can be?

Wrong Answer:
.
.
(ref. IEE wiring regulations Appendix 6 Table 6D2)
.
.

Right answer:
.
.
(ref IEE Wiring Regulations Appendix 4 Tables 4D1B, 4D2B, 4D3B, 4D4B, 4D5, 4E1B, 4E2B, 4E3B, 4E4B, 4F1B, 4F2B, 4F3B, 4G1B, 4G2B,......
.
.


Question:
Can I use 2 dimmer switches on a two way light circuit?

Wrong Answer:
Unfortunatly not. One needs to be a standard 2 way switch.

Right Answer:
Yes you can but you have to use dimmer switches designed to work together in this way.



Question:
What is supplementary equipotential Bonding (Supplementary Bonding)?

Wrong Answer:
Supplementary Equipotential Bonding is connecting together conductive parts of an electrical item and non-electrical item such as an electrical shower unit and the copper pipe work of the bath in order to prevent the occurance of a dangerous voltage between them under an earth fault connection.

"conductive parts of an electrical item"? - What, all of them? Would that be safe?

"non-electrical item such as ...the copper pipe work of the bath". Even if the pipes are not extraneous-conductive-parts? Would that be safe?


Height of sockets, switches & controls
"The building regs require that all switches and socket-outlets be installed so that all persons including those whose reach is limited can easily use them. Sockets-outlets and switches should therefore be installed at a height of between 450mm and 1200mm from the finished floor level."

Wrong.


I can't be *rsed to look for any more confusing, badly written, incorrect rubbish on your site, riddled with grammatical and spelling errors.

Go away, you pointless and incompetent waste of space.

pjcomp said:

If you plan a line of downlighters going the same way as the joists, ie in a continuous void, then yes, you can do it without lifting floorboards or chopping ceiling. Drill out for the downlighters, then feed the cable from each to the next (assuming you can pick up the power feed from the present ligh fitting in the same line). If the joists run across your lighting line then you'd have to chop out lumps of ceiling (or lift the upstairs floorboards) so you can get to the joists and drill through them for the cable.

PJ

Click to expand...

Unfortunately, as mentioned, I have to run perpendicular to the joists

Plan A: Lift the boards upstairs.

Plan B: Remove the ceiling downstairs.

Plan C: Cut holes in the ceiling to give you enough space to get a drill in (you must not notch the bottom edges of joists).

Plan D: Install a false ceiling.

Plan E: None of the above - forget the whole idea of downlighters. It would be a bad enough job if you were going to end up with lighting that worked, but to go to all that effort and end up with useless lighting seems crazy.

Plan F:

Drill through the floor boards above, install wiring on top of the floor boards and then install a false floor to cover and protect cables.

Thanks BaS.

It is going to be Plan A.

I have done the job before - I incorporated them into a new kitchen ceiling that I did (at home). It will be your Plan B - but i decided to replace the ceiling because the original had polystyrene tiles adhered to it, so I thought it eaiser to replace the whole thing, which was an ideal time to install such lighting.

Not sure what tou mean about Plan E, as I found the lights really good. put in about 7 years ago, and had to replace the transformer last year.

When I last installed them I let the cable lengths determine the positions, taking into account the need for direct light over the sink and cooking areas.

bernardgreen said:

Plan F:

Drill through the floor boards above, install wiring on top of the floor boards and then install a false floor to cover and protect cables.

Click to expand...

Yeah, right!!!

Plan F was used to install lights in a stone vaulted passageway where cables had to be hidden and the stone work could not be channelled.

But I agree as a way to avoid lifting floor boards it is not the best option

ban-all-sheds said:

Plan C:..you must not notch the bottom edges of joists

Click to expand...

It's frightening how many times this still seems to be done.

Anyway,
Plan G: Cut hole in plasterboard under joist, channel out back of plasterboard, clip cable to joists, replace plasterboard cut out.