Core drilling for extractor fan

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Bossfan01

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I'm installing an extractor fan. This obviously involves core drilling for duct pipe.
Its in the top corner of the room over some kitchen wall cabinets so not the easiest to get to, plus the overhang is quite deep.
Would it be possible to drill it from the out side all the way through both skins of the wall?
Secondly, I don't own a core drill and once hired a Hilti to drill a sink waste pipe, however, the hired machine seemed to just make a mess with little progress.
I thought that this time I would drill the circumference of the pipe and knock out the middle with a bolster. Any tips would be helpfull. Most importantly what do the pro's do when they don't wanna fill a customers house with brick dust ?????
 
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I bought a core drill and went from the outside (saves blowing out the bricks and ruining the job). The brick part is quite slow, but the mess goes outside. You need to be standing in a good position to apply some force. You could tape something plastic over the wall on the inside to limit the dust there.

Core drills aren't cheap though. I have several holes to make so it was worth it.
 
Mark where you want the hole, then a centre point, pilot a small hole.
So your drill don't skid about.
Then you want a decent SDS bit that is longer than the depth of your wall both leafs and cavity. (This is to give you a pilot from each side of the wall)
Drill form inside out keeping the long bit level or slightly tilted downwards (this will prevent rain water flowing back in to the house)
Drill straight through both leafs and cavity.
This will then leave you a pilot hole for the core drill for both sides of the wall, then you can core drill each leaf separately from both sides (internal and external). This will minimise damage to internal and external wall surface.
If this is just a one off, hire both the core bit and a decent SDS drill.
 
I can get through a brick cavity wall with a lump hammer in 5 minutes.

Hammer = £10
Core drill = £200+

Labour costs about the same. Clearly hammer method will need patching, but the customer can do that afterwards :LOL:
 
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A core drilling person came and drilled my kitchen wall for a boiler flue - about 16" solid stone with plasterboard inner - from the inside. They had what looked like a large vac cleaner attached to the machine. Obviously quite a bit of dust but very little actual mess.
 
I would caution against core drilling if you have to stand on anything raised.

The sort of drill you need will be heavy, and your arms will get tired. Let the drill drop even a small amount and the cutter will jam in the hole and the drill will then start to turn. Before the clutch operates it might have tipped you off.
 
As BAS says FGS make sure you are solidly positioned when core drilling. You can seriously injure yourself.
 
Nonsense, BAS!

The slipping clutch on a core drill will always operate instantly if the core-bit goes awry. It's annoying when this happens, but it's hardly life-threatening and nowhere near the hazard that you suggest it to be.

You ought to get out more........



Lucia.
 
This is the point of the slipping clutch on a drill designed to drive a core-bit: the moment there's a slight deviation in drilling angle or excess forward pressure from the user, the clutch will instantly slip with an annoying click click click. Then the user has to wriggle the bit to and fro 'til the drill starts again.

One is more likely to die of boredom while core-drilling, rather than being thrown from a ladder when the core-bit siezes in the wall........


Pffftttt!


Lucia.
 
Core drills have quite a rotational kick when they catch, it could easily throw someone up a ladder off balance. I refer here to a clutched core drill which you'll find in any hire shop, I have used them a few times.
 
I've often been thrown out of pubs, and a few nightclubs, but I've never been thrown orf a ladder..........




Lucia.
 
Why do you use mulitple question marks, when just the one will always do?

I'm currently using a Dehavilland CD15OO drill, having put aside the Hilti drill for a while, But I'm sure that the same rule applies to dedicated core drills such as Makita, Bosch & Co.


Lucia.
 
Can't say i've heard of a Dehavilland CD15OO, but if you've side-lined a hilti in favour of it, i'm guessing it's a good bit of kit. I've always used my hilti te-55, and never really had a problem, it takes a lot before the clutch kicks in on that. But I wouldn't think of using my te-16 to run a core bit, that would take all day!

P.S. apologies for the use of excessive punctuation.
 
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