Door casings/linings

macadonald · 21 Feb 2011

Hi guys,

Hoping for some advice please. As part of my house renovations, I have removed the old door frames and casings and am replacing them with new frames on both solid walls and a couple of stud walls.

As my old ash block walls were all 2 inch, I've been using 2 inch (75mm) timber for the frames. I was advised to leave a gap of 2 inches bigger than the door I want to install. So for a 28inch door, my gap is 30inch and so on.

I plan on buy prebuilt door casings to fit in and pack till they are square. Firstly, is the 1 inch on either side enough? This would mean that the door casing at it's narrowest part would need to be no more than an inch.

Also, if I have 75mm timber, plus 2x 12.5mm plasterboard plus a little plaster, so is that works out to requiring a door casing that is approx 100mm wide.

Do all these dimensions sound okay to you? Am I okay carrying on like this. I know carpenters will make almost anything work, but I'm trying to save money and do it myself.

Thanks

foxhole · 21 Feb 2011

They come at around 106mm wide [Wickes] and 28mm thick so you should be fine, though it's always wise to buy door and lining/casing first instead of trying to find one that fits your estimate.Depending on manufacturer and wood type they can vary by a few mm.

macadonald · 22 Feb 2011

Thanks for the response. 28mm is a fair bit more than an inch, so not sure I will be fine. That's a bit of a bugger...

JohnD · 22 Feb 2011

after you have wedged and screwed the door lings into place, run some expanding fireproof foam into the gap. It will fill any irregular gap tightly. As well as preventing smoke or flame getting through the gap, it will seal it to prevent noise and draughts getting through, and will also stick firmly to the wall and the lining to hold it solidly in place and prevent it rattling or coming loose when your teenage daughter keeps slamming it.

Protect the wall, exposed lining, and floor with cling film or masking tape, as the foam bulges out and is very sticky before it sets.

p.s. if you like dust, you can trim the wall blocks back with an angle grinder. If not, scraping them with a broad steel bolster will rub away high points surprisingly quickly. Otherwise you can plane the timber down.

p.p.s

macadonald said:
...I've been using 2 inch (75mm) timber for the frames....

2 inch is 50mm. 75mm is three inches.

macadonald · 22 Feb 2011

Thanks John,

A little dissapointed now, as it looks as though the 30" gap I left for the door casing is not going to be big enough for a 28" door. From your experience, is a 27" door too small for a modern bathroom or small 3rd box type bedroom?

JohnD · 22 Feb 2011

All my doors are 30" You can plane them down a quarter inch if you want. I got Wickes 6-panel FR doors as they are heavy and feel good, as well as blocking sound.

28" looks like a cupboard door to me. 27" would look very mean.

Did you say you have put an additional subframe on the wall as well as the door lining? Not necessary.

macadonald · 22 Feb 2011

Yes, I have bolted 2 * 45mm timbers to the wall on one side and the other side is the timber frame of the stud wall. Main reason for the timber bolted to the wall is to set the door slightly away, so that when the door opens flat against the wall it won't hit the towel radiator that is placed behind it. Also so that I can attach architrave all around the door frame, rather than just one side and the top as was previously the case. I thought this looked odd.

When you say sub frame and door casing is not necessary, I assume this applies to cases where there is brick work on both sides of the door.

JohnD · 22 Feb 2011

The door lining usually fixes to the stud or brickwork of the opening, with no subframe. I would have thought you could take away the subframe from at least one side.

If you have a radiator causing an obstruction, you might consider hanging the door on the other side, or possibly fitting a magnet or spring-ball door stop to hold the door in the preferred position when you want to leave it open. Unless there is a door-closing device fitted, or rising butt hinges, doors tend to stay put unless they are half-closed and the wind catches them.

foxhole · 23 Feb 2011

My toilet, bathroom and shower room doors are all 27" as is one of the bedrooms, has presented no problems so far.

IJWS15 · 24 Feb 2011

Our doors vary between 33", 30" and 27"

Nice and easy to get furniture through the 33" dorways . . .

27" is a little tricky with large items.

macadonald · 25 Feb 2011

Hi guys,

Thanks for all the useful responses. Gives me good peace of mind that 27" won't be a disaster in the bathroom. No need for big furniture to be going in and out of there.

One last questions. Some of my wall thicknesses are more than the 106mm door casing width, but less than the 132mm casing width that you can buy off of the shelf. Am I able to cut down a 132mm or is it best to build it from timber myself?

Thanks

foxhole · 25 Feb 2011

Should be simple enough to plane down a casing to fit.Ensure you plane from one side only as you don't wont to reduce the recess thickness for the door.

diynot

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.

Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

Door casings/linings

Similar threads