The dreaded Brittany Combi.............help needed

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Hi guys, before you say it I know..........The boiler was installed before I moved in but nobody seems to have a decent word to say about these!

I need some help......please.

About 3 months ago I replaced the the pump on the boiler and also the water pressure switch (which was cracked and leaking). Ever since ten Ive had a problem with the pressure.

1) The pressure seems to drop off at about the same time every night (maybe when the pots get washed) I know for a fact that running the hot water makes the temperature drop..........but it only seems to cut off at the same time most days?????

2) The low pressure switch is activating well before the red lines on the gauge..........before it used to cut off at 1bar, now it seems to be doing it at 1.5 bar............its as if the gauge is reading wrongly.

3) Earlier I turned the heating on and the pressure shot right up through the red to 4 bar............and didn't even cut the system out, surely there is a high pressure switch on there as well?....I had to turn it off at the mains, but when I turned it back on it was okay (i turned the temp up to max before i initially turned it on, but put it back down to half before I turned it on for the second time)

4) People I ask keep saying I need to put air into the expansion vessel because it will not have any in from when i initially drained the system....is this correct and if so how do I do it?

Really hope someone can help me, this boiler is becoming the bane of my life.
 
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Thank you very much, it seems thats my problem.

Im still a little confused what to actually do though. If it is filling with water how do I actually stop it from doing so? Do I need to replace it or can, as someone has mentioned, it literally be filled with air?
 
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The expansion vessel has a diaphragm/ balloon. In other words it has a water side and a 'air' side.
Initially the air side is inflated to approx 1bar so there is no water within the vessel.
Water is then introduced and pressure allowed to go to 1bar.
Note at this stage still no water within vessel.
Water gets heated and expands, now the extra volume goes within the vessel and compresses the existing air.
The volume of air goes down and the pressures goes up, that is both air and water.
If the initial air pressure is reduced/lost when water was introduced at 1bar then it will move the diaphragm and water will take up space that was reserved for air.
Now compressing the smaller volume of air is where the problem begins, because the pressure now increases to a much greater level than it was designed for and reaches 3bar quite easily and opens the PRV.
The solution is to recharge the 'air' to 0.8bar. at the same time removing the excess water out of the vessel
Just pumping up the vessel to 0.8bar will achieve nothing unless the excess water has been discharged.
 
So you'll need a bicycle pump or foot pump and pressure gauge.
If the PRV has already been operated, a replacement may be required as it may not seal again. So you could use the PRV to discharge the excess water.
But the water pressure must be zero with discharge point open to ensure vessel does not contain water.
 
Thanks Mandate, that helps loads!

Just to clarify, is there a valve on the vessel to connect a pump then? and would it be easier for me to just drain the system totally so that there is no pressure on the system?

Im assuming the following:

1) Drain the system
2) Pump air into the vessel (where can I get a gauge from?)
3) Fill the system back up

Right?
 
No need to drain the whole system. You'll lose inhibitor,
10 litres should be more than enough
 
Okay guys. Those 3 steps are fine then?

Im assuming there is a valve on the vessel to attach a pump. Sorry to sound stupid but I have no idea what this vessel even looks like. I'll head out now and get a foot pump.
 
It has a Schrader valve - the same as you find on bike / car tyres.

Mr. W.
 
You really must be aware of what you are doing or call in a professional.

The beginning of this procedure and mentioned above is that you depressurise the system. Then the gauge will be at zero and MUST remain at zero until you have finished!

Following the procedure will also identify any faults.

Tony
 
You really must be aware of what you are doing or call in a professional.

The beginning of this procedure and mentioned above is that you depressurise the system. Then the gauge will be at zero and MUST remain at zero until you have finished!

Following the procedure will also identify any faults.

Tony

Thanks Tony, Ive got myself a pump.

When you say it must remain at zero until its done what exactly do you mean? Currently there is no pressure on the system at all. So my next step is to get some air into this vessel and then refill the system........right?

You got me worried now.
 

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