Painting untreated mahogany

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I've just had some windows fitted and the sills and facings are untreated mahogany. All the paintwork in the room is a white eggshell finish and I think I'd like to paint the mahogany to match.

The fitter nearly fainted at the suggestion of painting mahogany but said if I want to go ahead then be careful as it's notoriously difficult to paint. He mentioned the grain not taking a decent coat.

I don't know how much of this is true but I'd like some advice on how best to paint it anyway.
 
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:eek: :eek: :eek:

If you must, sand off any existing treatment, and use Aluminium Wood primer (which gives good protection on hardwoods and external woodwork)

Sills are exposed to a lot of weather, so I'd use two thin coats of the aluminium primer, and a flexible breathing wood-paint system from a major manufacturer. Do it all in a spell of warm dry weather. If it was me I would treat all exposed timber and joints with cuprinol clear wood preserver to prevent future rot. Don't use any fillers which will crack and fall out, use a silicon sealant after you've painted it. Use a fine sandpaper lightly on all but the final coat to remove dirt, snots and flies legs and give a good key for the following coats.

Do not use black, red or dark colours on any sun-facing surfaces.


painting mahogany indeed :mad:



p.s. just to check, when you say "sills" you mean the external window sill that is part of the window frame? Not the flat internal window board that lies on top of the wall like a shelf?
 
I know, I know - it's sacrilege! :(

It's actually the internal facings and sills, so is the prep work any different?

And can I use an eggshell final finish?

The windows are UPVC.
 
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Not really if it's untreated, just give it a sand with fine paper and wipe over with white spirit to remove dust and dirt.
Eggshell is fine to use, but it's best to give it 2 topcoats.
 
OK. And just so I'm clear on this, still give it one or two coats of the aluminium primer?
 
As JohnD said, 2 thin coats are always better than 1 thick. If you are not using a self-undercoating eggshell, you will be better off giving it one coat of primer, then 1 coat of oil based undercoat before the topcoats.

Don't use silicone, because when it comes to re-painting at a later date, it won't cover! Use a good quality decorators caulk after the primer for any gaps/cracks that will need painting. You can then use a paintable frame sealant for perimeter pointing at the end of the job, if necessary.
 
So should I first remove the clear silicone the fitters have used to point between the UPVC frames and the wooden facings, and between the walls and wooden facings? Then fill the gaps between the walls and facings with caulk. Then prime & paint. Then finish with the frame sealant between the frames and facings.
 
If the silicone is actually on the wood I would say that you probably need to, though it does seem a pity if the fitters have done a nice job. You could try a test first though to see if the paint you are using will stick to the silicone, but in my experience most don't.
If you do reseal with caulk, then you may not need to apply frame sealant at the end if you can manage to paint a neat edge.

Are you absolutely sure you want to paint mahogany?! ;)
 
No, not sure at all!

But at least I know how to make a good job of it if I do.

:D
 
I mentioned silicone as an alternative to filler, because I thought it was the sill (which is outdoors) rather than the window board (which is indoors). Silicone stands up well in external joints without going hard and cracking, but yes, it does not take paint so is not the best choice indoors.

Indoor timber does not usually suffer from rain penetration into the joints, and does not expand and contract so much with the weather, so any filler is just cosmetic, and I agree caulk would do. No need to use Cuprinol inside either.
 

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