george_allen

Joined: 04 Jun 2003 Posts: 2 Location: United Kingdom Thanked: 0 times
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Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2003 1:50 pm Post Subject: mosaic tiles |
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My tiles are hessian backed, to be laid \\\'hessian down\\\', on a standard floorboarded base. What do I need to put on the floor first, and how do I ensure the tiles are laid square? Any tips please? |
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cobweb

Joined: 28 May 2003 Posts: 92 Location: United Kingdom Thanked: 0 times
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Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2003 2:46 pm Post Subject: tiles |
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I think I'd be inclined to lay PVA coated hardboard first to cover the entire area - giving an even, sealed suface for the tiles.
If the floorboards are quite level already with no appreciable gaps, and all the nails well sunken, then I suppose you could lay onto them. But maybe a coat of PVA to seal them first otherwise the tile adhesive might be taken up by the dry boards.
A builder's square - available at any good DIY/TOOL store - would be useful to determine if your room is true to begin with and even more so to mark out a true starting point to begin if it isn't. |
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breezer

Joined: 03 Jan 2003 Posts: 23346 Location: Sussex, United Kingdom Thanked: 5 times
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Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2003 6:03 pm Post Subject: |
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i would agree with cobweb (almost) hardboard as floor boards will flex, so after a while your tiles will become loose, i saw mr tommy walsh laying tiles in a kitchen, he screwed down mdf ( i think) so that there would be no movement what so ever __________________ Do you like music Mr Finch?
Forum = Opinions |
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masona

Joined: 05 Jan 2003 Posts: 10852 Location: Essex, United Kingdom Thanked: 7 times
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Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2003 8:16 pm Post Subject: |
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Info: Making a square
If you want to make a bigger square remember this the 3:4:5 rule.
Say we use a 3 straight lenght of 2"x1", lay all timber down as a triangle shape and on the external point, 1 must be 3 foot,1 must be 4 foot and the last one meet up must be 5 foot.You will always get 90 degree.Doesn't matter what measurement you use (3cm,4cm,5cm or 3miles,4miles,5miles!)Very handy for laying out garden project or fitting a corner bath or footing and so on.Try experiment on a A4 paper marking 3" from one corner & 4" on the other side from the same corner and put a ruler across the 2 points ,it will 5" and that will always be 90 degree square.
I will put this on a new topic as well for others |
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cobweb

Joined: 28 May 2003 Posts: 92 Location: United Kingdom Thanked: 0 times
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Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2003 9:48 pm Post Subject: |
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My error...I should have stated that he'd need to fix the hardboard down. Wicks do a cheap flooring adhesive that really sticks!
But then MDF would be a better substrate. |
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robmorphet

Joined: 31 Mar 2003 Posts: 80 Location: United Kingdom Thanked: 0 times
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Posted: Thu Jun 05, 2003 8:15 am Post Subject: |
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can you use the Wicks adhesive rather than plug&screw every 12"? (Just put down a new floor over the connie screed. used 12mm Brazil Ply screwed 32(!) times per 8*4 sheet.) The Wicks option sounds easier and a lot less labour intensive - how good is it? |
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cobweb

Joined: 28 May 2003 Posts: 92 Location: United Kingdom Thanked: 0 times
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Posted: Thu Jun 05, 2003 1:01 pm Post Subject: |
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It's called TIKATAK Multi Purpose Adhesive...and I can't tell you how damned sticky this stuff is! It's a contact adhesive and once contact is made it's made.
I've used it for timber, panels and vinyl...and an errant ceramic tile when I had no tile adhesive left...and it's very good. No lift problems at all in just over 12 months. |
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