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mosaic tiles

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george_allen

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2003 1:50 pm    Post Subject:
mosaic tiles
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My tiles are hessian backed, to be laid \\\'hessian down\\\', on a standard floorboarded base. What do I need to put on the floor first, and how do I ensure the tiles are laid square? Any tips please?
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cobweb

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2003 2:46 pm    Post Subject:
tiles
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I think I'd be inclined to lay PVA coated hardboard first to cover the entire area - giving an even, sealed suface for the tiles.

If the floorboards are quite level already with no appreciable gaps, and all the nails well sunken, then I suppose you could lay onto them. But maybe a coat of PVA to seal them first otherwise the tile adhesive might be taken up by the dry boards.

A builder's square - available at any good DIY/TOOL store - would be useful to determine if your room is true to begin with and even more so to mark out a true starting point to begin if it isn't.
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breezer

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2003 6:03 pm    Post Subject:
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i would agree with cobweb (almost) hardboard as floor boards will flex, so after a while your tiles will become loose, i saw mr tommy walsh laying tiles in a kitchen, he screwed down mdf ( i think) so that there would be no movement what so ever

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masona

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2003 8:16 pm    Post Subject:
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Info: Making a square

If you want to make a bigger square remember this the 3:4:5 rule.

Say we use a 3 straight lenght of 2"x1", lay all timber down as a triangle shape and on the external point, 1 must be 3 foot,1 must be 4 foot and the last one meet up must be 5 foot.You will always get 90 degree.Doesn't matter what measurement you use (3cm,4cm,5cm or 3miles,4miles,5miles!)Very handy for laying out garden project or fitting a corner bath or footing and so on.Try experiment on a A4 paper marking 3" from one corner & 4" on the other side from the same corner and put a ruler across the 2 points ,it will 5" and that will always be 90 degree square.

I will put this on a new topic as well for others
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cobweb

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2003 9:48 pm    Post Subject:
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My error...I should have stated that he'd need to fix the hardboard down. Wicks do a cheap flooring adhesive that really sticks!

But then MDF would be a better substrate.
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robmorphet

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2003 8:15 am    Post Subject:
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can you use the Wicks adhesive rather than plug&screw every 12"? (Just put down a new floor over the connie screed. used 12mm Brazil Ply screwed 32(!) times per 8*4 sheet.) The Wicks option sounds easier and a lot less labour intensive - how good is it?
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cobweb

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2003 1:01 pm    Post Subject:
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It's called TIKATAK Multi Purpose Adhesive...and I can't tell you how damned sticky this stuff is! It's a contact adhesive and once contact is made it's made.

I've used it for timber, panels and vinyl...and an errant ceramic tile when I had no tile adhesive left...and it's very good. No lift problems at all in just over 12 months.
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