Door casing not perfectly square

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Hi guys,

A couple of weeks ago I fitted some new door casings. Was happy at the time, although I couldn't figure out why when I 'd braced the frame on the floor and got the top level, the sides weren't. It confused me for ages, and I ended up saying to myself that as long as the top is level, I should be okay.

After having time to think about it, I can see where I went wrong. When bracing everything on the floor, the top plate was not at a perfect 90 deg to the sides. Although this is very minor, (prob only 93 deg), once you get to the bottom of the uprights it's nearly a centimeter out from level. I simply measured the distance between the uprights at the top and then ensured they were the same at the bottom - dope, don't you wish there was a rewind button.

Perhaps this is quite common on door frames, but I'm kicking myself for making this stupid mistake. Is it acceptable for the uprights to be slightly off level, but perfectly equidestant from each other? All this would mean is that the top and bottom of my door will not be perfectly square. I'm not sure if a real carpenter would put wood pieces up the sides to make this all level? Problem is it's already rebated, so might not look too good.

My argument is that it's an old house and it is likely to add character. Just annoyed with myslef.

Thanks
 
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for future reference
make sure the sides are parallel nail a baton 12"off the bottom
flip the frame check the measurement and fix another batton across the legs

assuming the legs are equal and machine cut measure the diagonals
when the diagonals are identical affix a diagonal baton 2 or 3 inches from the top and up from the batons

you don't rely on a square as any slight bow will give a false reading
 
When putting door casings in, you make sure the head is level and the legs are plumb and straight. I use a long straight edge to ensure the legs are straight. Use packers between the door casing and whatever your fixing it to, to make sure they are straight. If the legs are plumb and the head is level then the door frame has to be square (according to Pythagorus ) ;) ;) ;) ;)
 
Thanks guys,

You're both giving me the advise I needed about 3 weeks ago ;)

I did use the cross battons on both sides of the uprights and ensured they were parellel to each other. They're certainly the same width at the top and the bottom. What I learnt though, is that this is useless if they are not square the the top piece.

All too late now as they have been fixed, packed and all the new plaster applied. My question really was whether this is going to have much of a negative affect when hanging the door. Could kick myself for making this stupid mistake.. Oh well you live and you learn.
 
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When you come to fit the door, you'll have to "shoot " the top of the door.
Once planed down to width (so it fits in the frame) wedge the door up as far as it will go. You'll have a gap at one side where the door doesn't quite meet the head of the frame. This should show you how much to plane off the top of the door to make the top of the door meet the frame right across the frame. Worst case scenario will be <1/2" to nothing. If the gap requires 1/4" to nothing planing off the door, the finished result won't be too noticable. ;) ;)
 

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