Rads always hot.

Archroy · 10 Jun 2005

Could anyone please tell me why my Rads get hot at the same time as my hot water. I have the room stat turned right down and the Controller on hot water only. The valves appear to be working ok, but I'm no expert. I have a pumped system. Thanks.

doitall · 10 Jun 2005

Could be two known things.

The valve is not shutting off.

The system has been installed wrong and your getting a by-pass circulation through the primary circuit

ollski · 10 Jun 2005

because your motorized valve is letting water pass when it should be shut to heating. Needs replacing.

Archroy · 10 Jun 2005

Thanks for the speedy replies. I've been up in the airing cupboard fiddling with the valves and have a question:

If the lever on the outside appears to moving as it should, could there still be a problem with the inner workings?

ollski · 10 Jun 2005

Archroy said:
Thanks for the speedy replies. I've been up in the airing cupboard fiddling with the valves and have a question:

If the lever on the outside appears to moving as it should, could there still be a problem with the inner workings?

Yes the spring will be pulling the valve closed but it won't be making a tight seal for some reason and the water will pass into the heating circuit even though it's closed

Archroy · 10 Jun 2005

ollski said:
Archroy said:

Thanks for the speedy replies. I've been up in the airing cupboard fiddling with the valves and have a question:

If the lever on the outside appears to moving as it should, could there still be a problem with the inner workings?

Click to expand...

Yes the spring will be pulling the valve closed but it won't be making a tight seal for some reason and the water will pass into the heating circuit even though it's closed

Maybe this a stupid question for you, without the aid of a crystal ball....Would I change the whole valve or just the motor.

Thanks for being so helpful

ollski · 10 Jun 2005

your going to need to drain it down anyway so change the whole valve.

Agile · 10 Jun 2005

You should be able to work out from the lever if the valve is in the correct position, A, A+B or B for the required heat demand.

Its always possible that there is a control fault, perhaps the timeclock or room thermostat has failed.

If everything else is really correct then the wet part of the valve can have failed. An occasional problem is the moving rubber ball comes off the pivot or disintergrates.

Tony Glazier

Archroy · 11 Jun 2005

Agile said:
You should be able to work out from the lever if the valve is in the correct position, A, A+B or B for the required heat demand.

Its always possible that there is a control fault, perhaps the timeclock or room thermostat has failed.

If everything else is really correct then the wet part of the valve can have failed. An occasional problem is the moving rubber ball comes off the pivot or disintergrates.

Tony Glazier

I have a new timeclock and roomstat so things are pointing strongly to the valve. I'l pick up a new valve and post back later as a reference for anyone with similar probs.

Thanks again for the advice.

doitall · 11 Jun 2005

Could be three things now then.

Valve not closing

System not plumbed in right.

Faulty wiring to new components.

Archroy · 11 Jun 2005

doitall said:
Could be three things now then.

Valve not closing

System not plumbed in right.

Faulty wiring to new components.

Take your point. Had me thinking there for a moment, but we had this problem before the new switch and stat were installed. Also the system is plumbed in fine as it has worked correctly in the past. This will be the first time any plumbing has been altered. Ideas and thoughts always welcome.

ollski · 11 Jun 2005

doitall said:
Could be three things now then.

Valve not closing

System not plumbed in right.

Faulty wiring to new components.

Could be 4 things, it could be the cylinder stat is faulty, but it won't be it will be the valve

doitall · 11 Jun 2005

ollski said:
Could be 4 things, it could be the cylinder stat is faulty, but it won't be it will be the valve

Wouldn't be the cylinder stat

Could be any of the other three though

I would drain out and remove the valve just to visually inspect it for I got another

Archroy · 14 Jun 2005

An update:

I managed to salvage a honeywell valve today before a plumber skipped it. After a few choice words in the airing cupboard I replaced the motor without changing the wet part of the valve and have solved the problem.

We now have hot water, all rads are hot and cold at the appropriate times

Thanks all for taking time to advise.

ChrisR · 14 Jun 2005

Do you mean you changed the whole head or just the motor inside it? A dead motor would not give the symptoms you had!

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Rads always hot.

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