aquawave bathroom light switch

Hi ya

My client had one of these fitted

http://www.blueb.co.uk/ProductDetails.asp?Id=670

It is playing silly beggars. It'll work fine and then it starts to ignore you and either stay on or off- resulting in them needing to trip the rcd to turn it off etc

It uses IR to detect hand movements. You can hear the unit clicking (ie the relay responding) but nothing happens.

The bathroom has 7 LEDs and 2 halogens.

The suppliers swapped out the first unit for a 500w version- they explained that the higher watt version can lead to light flickering because of the capacitor and and the low draw from the LEDs.

They did a bench test prior to sending it out.

The new unit has the same issue as the other one.

The unit has since been refitted by a proper electrician. The makers suggested that the issue might be a result of the the feed and supply being reversed. I have checked and they are indeed the correct way around.

No one seems to know what the problem is.

At a guess I suspect that something might be wrong with one of the LED lights as it takes about half a second longer to light than the rest- would this be a possible issue?

At the back of my clouded mind something tells me that LED drivers can be problematic- but that might be a figment of my overactive imagination.

The original wiring was done by a "builder" who summarily snipped the earth on any circuits that end in LV/double isolation- the switch however doesn't have any kind of earth so I don't see why that would be an issue.

Any (sensible) suggestions?

Cheers

Reading

http://www.blueb.co.uk/documents/Aqua-wave-fitting-instructions.pdf

3) When choosing where to site the switch, please take into
consideration the following..
If light from a halogen downlight shines directly on the sensor,
this can activate the switch. Please direct the light so it does
not shine directly at the sensor.
Reflection off shiny surfaces such as chrome shower doors
may have the same effect.
Also ensure the switch is not placed too close to opening
doors or other moving objects which will activate the switch.

Click to expand...

would suggest that this unit is prone to false operations unless great care is taken when deciding where to locate it.

If the unit has been frequently false operating then the switching device ( apparently a relay ) may have worn out its contacts prematurely.

IT SHOULD DEFINITELY BE EARTHED

[quote="bernardgreen";p="1954637]
would suggest that this unit is prone to false operations unless great care is taken when deciding where to locate it.

If the unit has been frequently false operating then the switching device ( apparently a relay ) may have worn out its contacts prematurely.[/quote]

The replacement developed the same fault on the day that it was fitted.

The clients noticed the fault with the first one after a day or two.

I don't think the positioning is the problem but I guess I could make some kind of cardboard shroud to eliminate the possibility of room lighting causing it to play up.

EFLImpudence said:

IT SHOULD DEFINITELY BE EARTHED

Click to expand...

There is no where to earth it. The back box is a dry lining box and the metal faceplate switch is double insulated.

Re earthing I was referring to the fact that the builder used only the live and neutral parts of the lighting T&E- Deciding not to continue the earths given that the light fittings didn't need them. The electrician said that was naughty as it means there is no earth protection on the cabling itself.

However I doubt that would affect the switch.

opps said:

Deciding not to continue the earths given that the light fittings didn't need them. The electrician said that was naughty as it means there is no earth protection on the cabling itself.

Click to expand...

It is not naughty IT IS DANGEROUS as someone later may add a fitting that relies on the earth wiring being effective.

However I doubt that would affect the switch.

Click to expand...

It might as the earth conductor can absorb some of the electrical noise that modern equipment ( switched mode power supplies and electronic "transformers" ) can generate. The switch may be reacting to electrical noise on the mains supply.

bernardgreen said:

opps said:

Deciding not to continue the earths given that the light fittings didn't need them. The electrician said that was naughty as it means there is no earth protection on the cabling itself.

Click to expand...

It is not naughty IT IS DANGEROUS as someone later may add a fitting that relies on the earth wiring being effective.

However I doubt that would affect the switch.

Click to expand...

It might as the earth conductor can absorb some of the electrical noise that modern equipment ( switched mode power supplies and electronic "transformers" ) can generate. The switch may be reacting to electrical noise on the mains supply.

Click to expand...

Thanks bernard,

could you explain how the disconnected earth is acting as a conduit? Would the fact that it is not connected mitigate the transmission of the noise. Or would a connected earth transmit the noise away from the switch back to the consumer unit (and further)?

Sorry, I appreciate your help but doon't quite understand the answer.

LED’s and certain Fluorescent lighting with Ballasts may flicker
...
Please ensure the wires are making very good contact with the terminal at the bottom of the hole
...
the frequency of the sun’s rays can activate the sensor
...
If light from a halogen downlight shines directly on the sensor this can activate the switch.
...
Reflection off shiny surfaces such as chrome shower doors may have the same effect.
...
Also ensure the switch is not placed too close to opening doors or other moving objects
...
please keep your body back from the switch as this can fool the sensor

Click to expand...

With so many warnings, clearly the product is poorly designed junk and should never be fitted anywhere.

The only sensible option is to fit a normal switch.

flameport said:

With so many warnings, clearly the product is poorly designed junk and should never be fitted anywhere.

The only sensible option is to fit a normal switch.

Click to expand...

Hmnnnn... me thinks that is what the client will end up doing, moving the switch to the outside of the room (and ditching the Aqua Wave).

That said I went for an EM field switch hidden behind my tiles (at home) and it has behaved perfectly. it was the size of a postage stamp and runs off cat5.

I would rather they found out why it is failing given that they paid good money for a service from a "builder" that was substandard and for a product that is not doing what it shoud, for what ever reason.

For some reason I am still drawn towards the idea that LED drivers can be problematic- Am I off the mark?