I have been advised that my control box requires a new CK 700L board. Does anyone know where I can get one or should I upgrade as this component is obsolete? I have also been told that I will have to buy both the board and a new panel. Is this necessary? If I can get the board with fitting instructions I will fit it myself. Successfully I hope.
CK 700L alarm panel or board.
- Thread starter dgb32
- Start date
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A
Alarm
No longer made or supported by the manufacturer.
Time for something a bit newer and better methinks.
Time for something a bit newer and better methinks.
hi buy a 800l same metal box same shape keypad quick swop over, the 800l pcb will fit in the 700l box just swop the wires like for like and swop keypad as the holes will be the same hope this helps. mark
I was advised the same (see my previous posts) so i found a company that supplies a new panel and key pad, i replaced both and still have the same issues, i cant afford to replace the complete alarm system and have already paid a sparky to look at it, his advice was incorrect.
BTW why were you advised to replace the panel?
Regards
BTW why were you advised to replace the panel?
Regards
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hi what was the fault with the so called faulty alarm ? thanks mark
When arming the system prior to leaving the house or entering the house the internal buzzer is almost silent? (previously it was much louder) There are no lights on the keypad apart from mains and day which is correct.
I tried triggering the system but i have no internal sounder or external siren, i get the trigger zone on the display as you would expect.
I had the guy who had previously serviced the system come and look and told me he suspected the fault to be the PCB inside the panel.
I have since replaced both the alarm panel and keypad with a new item and have exactly the same problem, i phoned and told the service engineer that his diagnosis was incorrect and he said, he only suspected the fault to lie in the panel.
I dont have the £50.00 call out he wants neither would i pay him as i dont trust his diagnosis after this.
any advice would be welcomed
Cheers
I tried triggering the system but i have no internal sounder or external siren, i get the trigger zone on the display as you would expect.
I had the guy who had previously serviced the system come and look and told me he suspected the fault to be the PCB inside the panel.
I have since replaced both the alarm panel and keypad with a new item and have exactly the same problem, i phoned and told the service engineer that his diagnosis was incorrect and he said, he only suspected the fault to lie in the panel.
I dont have the £50.00 call out he wants neither would i pay him as i dont trust his diagnosis after this.
any advice would be welcomed
Cheers
hi does your system have an internal speaker ? normally 8-32 ohms depending on speaker used could have blown i would normally test with a multimeter set on ohms disconected from panel should be getting around 8-32 ohms as a reading if not replace also the panel has a speaker volume pot check that also. to check bell program the on board keypad panic normally on sevens menu when you have set this hold #and * down to set off alarm go and check the bellbox to see if its ringing or strobe flashing sounder may have packed in and let me know.
A
Alarm
50 quid in the right internet sites gets you a new panel keypad and bellbox.
Google can be your friend!
Google can be your friend!
Hi,
I have carried out the checks that you advised on both speakers both of which were open circuit? Could this be a coincidence that both seem to have failed?
I checked a spare speaker that i had in my garage with a 10.5 ohmn meter reading ( as you advised ).
The system is engineering mode, would it be worth powering down and connecting the spare speaker i have to the system to see if it works? The speaker is rated at 8 ohmns.
Regards
I have carried out the checks that you advised on both speakers both of which were open circuit? Could this be a coincidence that both seem to have failed?
I checked a spare speaker that i had in my garage with a 10.5 ohmn meter reading ( as you advised ).
The system is engineering mode, would it be worth powering down and connecting the spare speaker i have to the system to see if it works? The speaker is rated at 8 ohmns.
Regards
hi 8ohms should be fine but don't put 2 8ohms on it put 2 16ohms or 32ohms if you are fitting 2 speakers have had speakers go short circuit which will make the second speaker go faulty no need to power down to fit speaker let me know how it goes.
Hi Sparky
Ive just fitted the spare speaker to the siren output on the alarm board, some popping was heard then it stopped, i removed it to find that the speaker is now open circuit? That speaker has now blown?
WTF is going on... Now i am confused.
Ive just fitted the spare speaker to the siren output on the alarm board, some popping was heard then it stopped, i removed it to find that the speaker is now open circuit? That speaker has now blown?
WTF is going on... Now i am confused.
speaker output terminal AC ! low current
siren terminals DC reasonable current!!
failed speaker by inducing DC into it.
sorry mate you need another speaker,
only connect DC driven sirens via siren output terminals!
Oasis
siren terminals DC reasonable current!!
failed speaker by inducing DC into it.
sorry mate you need another speaker,
only connect DC driven sirens via siren output terminals!
Oasis
Using a meter at both connections inside the alarm box (siren and internal speaker) what would you expect to see?
Regards
Regards
the speaker connects to the speaker terminals not the siren output as per diagram in install manual.
ok, so if i was to use my meter at each + and - for the bell and internal siren what voltage should i have?
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