Electric Cooker size?

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I've got a normal 32A MCB on my kitchen cooker socket, how can I work out what wattage/power electric cooker I can use? I'd like to get something with 4 burners on top and separate grill and oven below.
 
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The Belling 60i stand alone which has two ovens one with three elements so you can select fan normal and with latter top bottom or both. Plus 4 induction hobs one with 3.6kW still has a recommended supply of 32A.

I will assume some internal switching as add up all the rings and oven elements it is well over 32A. This is however British if you get one of the imported units then you may need a larger supply.

Most cookers you can download the spec sheet. However when I looked not the 60i but if you want I have scanned in the manual as one that came with it was not in good paper.

The down side is the oven rails are not as good as older models there is no splash back or splash guard on control knobs.

Having used my Mothers cooker with touch controls I am glad it has knobs not touch controls.
 
By convention anything up to about a 19kW cooker is supportable on a 32A supply, a lot more than a 60cm cooker is ever going to be.

Not everyone is happy with the traditional diversity calculation, myself included, but the fact remains that it is in the guidelines and cookers genuinely do not run flat out all of the time. Do the sums for that Belling and (assuming the cooker switch has no socket) you get to 26A, so not too aggressively close to the limit. Are you the sort of cook who will be using both ovens and all 4 rings at the same time, particularly starting them all up at the same time?

Of course, you could resolve all circuit capacity issues by getting a dual-fuel cooker, assuming you have gas available ;)
 
Thanks for that. The cooker's for my mum, she's getting on a bit and has left the gas on a couple of times so I'm thinking about changing her to an (60cm) electric cooker as it seems safer. She loves her baking so the oven will get used a lot and when she's cooking there usually about three rings on the go at the same time.

I could get the MCB changed to say 48A but that'll mean a lot of work - digging up wall, replacing cable etc. So not too keen on that. I was thinking about something that I can just plug in.

Can I get a reasonable electric cooker for her needs?
 
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From what I've read, there is no point changing the cooker supply from 32A for a 60cm cooker. Rings and ovens spend very little time on full power. An efficient modern oven uses very little electricity once it is warm. The thermal element in an MCB attempts to mimic the heating of the cable and allows considerable extra current for some time. The electro-magnetic element doesn't kick in until 3-5 times rated current (B-type). So a 32A circuit might supply 100A for a brief time without tripping.

The diversity calculation for a household cooker is 10A plus 30% of additional full load current. A 32A supply is 'usually appropriate' for household cookers up to 15kW plus a 13A socket. As said above, up to 19kW can be run from a 32A supply without a socket.
 
I had a look on the Currys site and saw the Beko D532, just one of many on there. Not much info there so I checked the Beko site and it gives max power for each element as

Hot plate 1 = 2 kW
Hot plate 2 = 1 kW
Hot plate 3 = 1 kW
Hot plate 4 = 1.5 kW

Grill = 2 kW
Main Oven = 2.4 kW

Total = 9.9kW

I was trying to remember my O”level physics and I thought current = power/voltage, so in this case current = 10000/240 = 42amps

Is that right? At 10kW max does it sound like a 32A MCB will do the job if everything was turned on?
 
Your calculations are correct, but do not represent the load of the cooker as a whole.

Just buy the cooker and connect it to the existing supply. You won't have any problems with the MCB tripping.
 
I agree. That cooker will be fine on the supply you already have.

Your mum is never going to have all 4 rings, the grill and the oven on all at once. Even if she did the thermostats in the various heating elements will be switching on and off.
 

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