Changing telephone socket

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Would you say its just a case of me trying again. I pushed the wires in completely last time.
 
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Back to the original point raised by the post - The way to keep your service provider happy is to retain their white plastic NTE, but fit it somewhere unobtrusive (back of a cupboard, loft, etc, etc.), and fit your preferred style of sockets wherever you desire.
That way you retain the surge protection, line test, ringer circuit and maintenance demarcation facilities of the original NTE in it's preferred form, and the appearance you desire. The NTE can also become the marshalling point for your telephony and ADSL connections, and be fitted with a filtered front plate, doing away with the need for individual filters on every socket

There are different types of sockets produced.
Some, often designated **/1A contained all the parts, including surge protection and a line test circuit usually required by network suppliers.

Sockets usually designated **/2A contained a reduced number of parts, and were intended for use on private installations where line protection and testing facilities were not a requirement.

**/3A sockets are secondary sockets with no master socket facilities.

NTEs usually provide master socket facilities and a test socket which is the maintenance boundary between the network providers' responsibility and your internal wiring.

IDC connectors in telephone sockets are only designed to accept two solid core conductors of the same diameter. Adding a third wire, wire of a different diameter, or using stranded conductors all impact on the reliability of the connections.

More than two wires at one point implies an internal wiring layout with more than one cable end. Multiple cable ends can cause multiple internal signal reflections in unfiltered wiring, which can have a dramatic impact on maximum available broadband speeds on ADSL lines.
 
Would you say its just a case of me trying again. I pushed the wires in completely last time.

Nope. They are supposed to take three wires but seldom do. I simply use a screw connector like I described and never had a problem. As bernard warns though, in 10 years time if the wire oxidises and your line goes a little crackly, you might have to open the socket to tighten the screw but if you can handle that go for it.
 
As bernard warns though, in 10 years time if the wire oxidises and your line goes a little crackly, you might have to open the socket to tighten the screw but if you can handle that go for it.
But be aware line noise will increase your noise margin & line attenuation which will play havoc with your hub connection causing frequent resets which in turn can drastically affect your broadband connection speed; as does switching your hub off every night! Something to bear in mind if your maximum line speed is already marginal & you use BB for downloading or listening to the radio, BBC I player or have BT Vision.
 
Multiple cable ends can cause multiple internal signal reflections in unfiltered wiring, which can have a dramatic impact on maximum available broadband speeds on ADSL lines.

A 2 metre stub ( or spur ) to an un-used telephone socket reduced ADSL "speed" by half as shown when the stub was removed.

Always the best option is a filtered front plate on the NTE5 and totally separated ADSL and 'phone cabling. That way you can do what you like with the 'phones without any significant effect on the ADSL signal.

If the NTE5 from BT is in the wrong place then wire a single pair of good quality CW1308 from its un-filtered side ( front panel ) to a new NTE5 that you supply and fit where your hub / modem will be. Fit this with a filtered front plate and take all you phone wiring from its filtered side.

Make sure the BT NTE5 is accessible and it front panel can be removed if BT ask you to connect a known working phone into the socket on the rear of the NTE5 for a line function test.

Some of the cheap telephone cable does not meet CW1308 and may not carry ADSL as well as true CW1308 will.
 

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