Inhibit

Well I think if the garage door is opened and the timer is extended. With all the detectors on inhibit, say goodbye to the garage contents at least.

But what would I know.

You think what you like.

Chances are if it's a new build, that the walls are all dry lines. If you good with a bit of copper core from some twin and earth or fish rods, you can usually fish the alarm cable from a pair of small holes made at floor to 1 metre up the wall.

Rekusu said:

The major omission, in my opinion, was not wiring a second RKP in the garage.
Rex

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Nope, THE major omission is not taking on board the advice you are being given vis a vis design and how these things work.

This maybe a diy site but when someone who knows what he's doing gives advice, it is usually best to at least take heed of it.

If you think visual deterrent is a good option, why not just put up a sign saying "beware, big, nasty fck off dog inside".
But then you know why don't you.

Rekusu said:

The major omission, in my opinion, was not wiring a second RKP in the garage.

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Rekusu said:

I don't imagine that too many are going to try the front door when the back is well hidden from view; hence my reason for not fitting a door contact.

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Your other major ommission was not thinking about how the alarm was to be set on exit. The door contact on the main door has two tasks. It is part of the setting and unsetting process as well as detecting a door opened by intruders.

gnattycole said:

Chances are if it's a new build, that the walls are all dry lines. If you good with a bit of copper core from some twin and earth or fish rods, you can usually fish the alarm cable from a pair of small holes made at floor to 1 metre up the wall.

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Gnattycloe,

You are correct. Trouble is the control box is in a shallow cupboard set into the wall and there is diddly squat space behind it to fish for the cable.

No exit door contact: If you saw the design of the house, and the front door, it would only be possible to have a surface mounted contact and whatever flak anyone can give me, I don't want that.

But one of my original points that I am trying to understand, is what is Inhibit? What is the difference between Inhibit and Timed?

If the door contact provides entry with a delay before the alarm activates, then someone can get into the house without activating the alarm for x seconds. OK, when they walk through, the first PIR will pick them up. So if they now enter the front door, the first PIR (entry) will not activate; but when they walk into the hallway, whichever way they turn, one of the other PIR will activate. If they enter the house from anywhere at the back, they will activate a PIR (everywhere is covered.) The garage is also covered.

My omission of a RKP in the garage was because I was advised that only one entry/exit is advisable and that is usually the front door.

Rex

Rekusu said:

You are correct. Trouble is the control box is in a shallow cupboard set into the wall and there is diddly squat space behind it to fish for the cable.

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A metal weight on a length of thin cotton or fishing line dropped behind the dry liner near the ceiling can sometimes be guided as it falls by a magnet. Keep the magnet below the weight and the cotton tight to avoid the weight being held against the back of the dry liner. Measure how much cotton has gone down so you know how far down the weight is.

This gives a weak draw cord to pull in a length of string as a draw cord for the cable.

DO NOT USE THIS FOR POWER OR LIGHTING CABLE as it is impossble to ensure the cable remains in the safe zone

INHIBIT - Example >>

Z1. Front Door Contact - F/Exit
Z2. Hall PIR - E/Exit (Inhibit)
Z3. Lounge PIR - Intruder
Z4. Kitchen PIR - E/Exit (Inhibit)
Z5. Back door contact - F/Exit

Now, with the above it is possible to go in/out using the Front or Back doors.

Now, you're OUTSIDE, alarm SET (ON).
Enter through Front or Back doors to access the KeyPad in the hall.

Entry time starts you go and turn it off. Notice you have walked through Z2 & or Z5 as well as opening the door, only the entry timer started.

IF you broke in through the Kitchen window, the Kitchen PIR would pick you up and cause a FULL ALARM.

Notice the difference?

Opening a F/E door INHIBITS the E/Exit circuits, Z2 & Z5, allowing you access to the KeyPad to turn off the system.

If you walked into the Lounge the PIR there would cause a FULL ALARM as it is NOT INHIBITED ON ENTRY.

Hope that helps.

Europlex


PS I Asked the wife to read this before I posted & she, a mere woman understood. OUCH! Just been hit over the head!!

Are you actually in Vanuatu?

I'd like to go there, been to the Cook Islands, loved it.

Europlex,

No, I'm not in Vanuatu; must have hit the wrong option when registering. May be United Kingdom is next to Vanuatu on the list?

Thanks for your explanation. Think I understand. In which case, when are Inhibited zones actually active? I assume they are Inhibited when entering through a designated E/E door?

Bernardgreen,

That's good idea; unfortunately it will not work in my case. Timber frame house and all the walls are insulated with Warmcell (recycled newspaper) totally filling the cavities. Would have to drill holes and fish for the cable, which I am now considering doing. The walls have all been decorated but as there is some touching up to do, a bit more will not make too much difference.

Rex