Hi, I`m replacing kitchen !!! I`m a heating engineer and fine with electrics but need help with mcb/cable size for cooker(built in double oven and seperate hob, do I need to know the rating of appliences first or can I run two 10mm`s from CU so I`m covered whatever the rating. Also do the reg`s state the DP isolator for each of these has to be on show or can it be in back of cupboard. Many Thanks
Oven / Hob
- Thread starter boilerman++
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Yes you should ideally find the loading of the appliances to get the correct cable but if you 10mm that should do.
If your oven an hob are relatively close together you could use 1 x 10mm to supply both & use 1 double isolator & split the supply after the isolator to the cable required (smaller).
I not a sparky, so I will probably be shot down but Im the first to reply to get you thinking.
And it made my 500th posting so happy b/day to me
Welcome to DIYNOT
If your oven an hob are relatively close together you could use 1 x 10mm to supply both & use 1 double isolator & split the supply after the isolator to the cable required (smaller).
I not a sparky, so I will probably be shot down but Im the first to reply to get you thinking.
And it made my 500th posting so happy b/day to me
Welcome to DIYNOT
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BM, welcome.
At the top of the Electrics UK listing, you will find a Sticky post called "For Reference".
You should find some useful info. here. Also, use the search facility to find keywords such as Cooker, Oven, Hob, Rating etc....
This will bring up old threads that hopefully will cover what you're looking for.
If you are struggling, please come back and we can help further.
Personally, I would give each appliance its own circuit. The hob will be the largest, usually around 6kW or 26A. The double oven is generally around 20, 22A.
There is a rule of diversity (another keyword you could search for), but to be honest, most sparks I know assume full-load and design the circuit accordingly.
At the top of the Electrics UK listing, you will find a Sticky post called "For Reference".
You should find some useful info. here. Also, use the search facility to find keywords such as Cooker, Oven, Hob, Rating etc....
This will bring up old threads that hopefully will cover what you're looking for.
If you are struggling, please come back and we can help further.
Personally, I would give each appliance its own circuit. The hob will be the largest, usually around 6kW or 26A. The double oven is generally around 20, 22A.
There is a rule of diversity (another keyword you could search for), but to be honest, most sparks I know assume full-load and design the circuit accordingly.
Why is it always me.....
Boilerman - are you aware of the requirements of Part P of the Building Regulations?
Boilerman - are you aware of the requirements of Part P of the Building Regulations?
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Thanks for your help, It will be a "gut it & start again" job so running new cables is not a problem.
CU is about 3m away from where oven & hob will be and they are less than a meter from each other.
Wanted to know about rating as I`m yet to replace CU and wondered if the sets with all the mcb`s in will be a waste of money if I`ve got to buy extra one`s.
The Hob I think were getting has 2 x 1.70kw zones and 2 x 1.20kw zones thats all the info the web site gives, she hasn`t chose the oven yet and now she has just said she want`s a gas oven, which is better for me.
Thanks again, and yes I am aware of part P shed man, I`m a corgi reg, gas engineer and we are assessed and certified on part P now
CU is about 3m away from where oven & hob will be and they are less than a meter from each other.
Wanted to know about rating as I`m yet to replace CU and wondered if the sets with all the mcb`s in will be a waste of money if I`ve got to buy extra one`s.
The Hob I think were getting has 2 x 1.70kw zones and 2 x 1.20kw zones thats all the info the web site gives, she hasn`t chose the oven yet and now she has just said she want`s a gas oven, which is better for me.
Thanks again, and yes I am aware of part P shed man, I`m a corgi reg, gas engineer and we are assessed and certified on part P now
As far as I recall NONE of the current CORGI work classifications under Part P will cover installing new circuits in a special area ( like kitchen ) unless they are SOLELY to form a new supply for a BOILER !
It is widely rumoured that CORGI will be extending their electrical work scope to full domestic later this year. ( Much to the pleasure of the anti NICEIC people here I presume ).
Nor will CORGI cover any work in upgrading a CU for different loadings and including the RCD(s).
By the way the loading for double ovens above means 20A to 22A . It would be a commercial bread oven if it was 20 kW !!! Most domestic electric ovens are about 2.6 kW each.
There are VERY few gas under the work surface ovens and they are mostly VERY expensive.
Tony Glazier
It is widely rumoured that CORGI will be extending their electrical work scope to full domestic later this year. ( Much to the pleasure of the anti NICEIC people here I presume ).
Nor will CORGI cover any work in upgrading a CU for different loadings and including the RCD(s).
By the way the loading for double ovens above means 20A to 22A . It would be a commercial bread oven if it was 20 kW !!! Most domestic electric ovens are about 2.6 kW each.
There are VERY few gas under the work surface ovens and they are mostly VERY expensive.
Tony Glazier
I am aware of this, was just stating I know about Part P, all I wanted was advice on the cable size.
Thanks for your help
Thanks for your help
Normally I don't bother if people chose to ignore or break the law - I mention it only because I don't think they should break it unwittingly. My Q to you was not a covert "you should not be doing this".boilerman++ said:
BUT - your CORGI Part P certification is a defined scope one, and does not allow you to certify the replacement of CUs etc.
If "she" is your wife/gf, and this is your house, then carry on, and feel free to ask. But if "she" is a customer, paying you/your employer to do this work then you should think again, unless you plan to go the LABC notification route.
yes it`s my house all I`m doing is running a cable then I`ll have a sparks to connect every thing up, and yes she`s my wife (hope she doesn`t see this) Thanks for your concern. BM
Could be worse - you could have been asking advice on how to install a hidden webcam in the shower....boilerman++ said:
ban-all-sheds said:
So, IP56?, or would IP44 be sufficent, bearing in mind a webcam will be ELV, and so unlikely to present a significant shock hazard, usb specs call for a maximum cable length of 5m, so this will affect the location of the attached computer, so you might have computer equipment in a special location which might throw up questions on the earthing system, oh could get complicated...
you lot crease me sometimes
I think if SWMBO found out you'd be facing all manner of hazards, some not seen since the days of the Spanish Inquisition..Adam_151 said:
Nobody expected that!ban-all-sheds said:
Cheers,
Howard
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