Accenta Gen4 walk test problem

I like the bits where you say

IT DOESNT MAKE ANY DIFFERENCE.

If it says fit the lid fit the thing.
If it says stand on one leg and sing god save the queen DO IT, its for a reason.

But carry on blindly.

Either follow the manual exactly or get someone in.
We were right earlier, its you doing something wrong.

Fit panel, wire up, when ready fit battery and panel lid.
Enter code, power mains.
programme.

Also see you have upset a mate on the other forum.
Same question, same " what difference will it make" lol.
Your getting good at this lark aint you

Sorry if I come across in any way that could be considered as being unfriendly. I'm feeling massively frustrated at needing to get this done asap as the missus now doesnt like being at home at night without an alarm, I've got kids running round screaming, I clearly need to take a step back and calm down. About to fit panel as humbly advised................

Alarm said:

I like the bits where you say

IT DOESNT MAKE ANY DIFFERENCE.

If it says fit the lid fit the thing.
If it says stand on one leg and sing god save the queen DO IT, its for a reason.

But carry on blindly.

Click to expand...

Hi Alarm,
I know where you are coming from. Followed instructions as advised to the letter and no change. So acknowledging I'm here because i'm doing something wrong, the question remains, what I dont understand is what am i doing wrong given I am following the instructions explicitly now............

Can you photograph the panel, the wiring.
The door contact and wiring.

You are going into the FULL programming and assigning the zone to P1?

Do these work? I'll check and if not revise how I load them......

Wiring at the door switch (not currently used testing via the shorted circuit). Red and black across the reed switch, blue and yellow joined at the junction. Resistance of red and black when closed is 1.8ohms, and when door opened, circuit is open, i.e. inifinity ohms

<a href="http://s1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd478/prbuk/?action=view&current=4aff35cb.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd478/prbuk/4aff35cb.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

These next photos are of the board as it is. Note I have no real wiring attached. This is the RHS of the board as you will recognise.

<a href="http://s1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd478/prbuk/?action=view&current=c98bf171.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd478/prbuk/c98bf171.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

This is the shorted circuit

<a href="http://s1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd478/prbuk/?action=view&current=5a3372ac.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd478/prbuk/5a3372ac.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

This is what it looks like when I have connected it, i.e. the black and red in the zone 1 circuits. Tamps not connected from this circuit as they are shorted out on the board for now. After the walk test was sucessfull, I will wire up the tamps in serial.

<a href="http://s1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd478/prbuk/?action=view&current=5d8fff74.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd478/prbuk/5d8fff74.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

No that format does not work.

Also

You are going into the FULL programming and assigning the zone to P1?

photos uploaded
Red and black across reed. blue and yellow joined
Showing all factory shorts
Shorted zone 1
LCD panel (doesnt show much without rear of panel I guess)
What it was like before I went into debug mode

Link everything out.
Make sure the zones are programmed into P1.

Then with all lids on do a walk test again.

Alarm said:

No that format does not work.

Also

You are going into the FULL programming and assigning the zone to P1?

Click to expand...

I think this is where the massive thank you comes in..............I had set program 1 to be as I wanted it, e.g. zone 1 used, 2-7 unused. What I hadnt done is set P2 and P3 to the same............ Having just done that it does what I was expecting, i.e. a 0 until i opened the door when it turns to a 1.

I am really grateful for your help. Not mention the missus.

You da man.

You should not have to IIRC.

Set it all up and test it fully, not walk test but in a full set and alarm.

am i right in saying you are only using 1 zone,
if yes then try this, put a link in zone 2 and set all other zones as unused.
the control panel needs to see 2 active zones, it wont work with 1 zone connected only.
hope this helps

Why?

If one zone on entry it will go into alarm on timeout.
If an instant set it will go into alarm on activation.

Agreed a waste with one zone, but have done it before for special applications.

hi alarm its a bug on the software trust me it works.