Replacing a 1/2" BSP Stop Cock

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Hello All,

Having our kitchen refitted and looking to replace the stop cock before putting the new unit next to it and cutting a hole in the side so it still remains accessible. The house was built c.1970 and the stop cock is (as far as I am told) ½” BSP type. The water main that comes in through the clay pipe is black plastic as below picture. I am able to turn the water off in the street.

What is the best procedure for replacing this and what would I need? Should I take the stop cock off and take it into Plumb Center etc?

Thanks in advance!!

View media item 35499 [/img]
 
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What is the best procedure for replacing this and what would I need? Should I take the stop cock off and take it into Plumb Center etc?

You like watching grown men and spotty youths scratching their heads?
 
What is the best procedure for replacing this and what would I need? Should I take the stop cock off and take it into Plumb Center etc?

You like watching grown men and spotty youths scratching their heads?

Ha ha, I did think of walking straight back out if the shop assistant's face resembled a pizza!

Is there such thing as a BSP to 15mm stop cock? Is it OK to leave the old one on and fit a new one after? Just worried that if it fails it would be a pain to sort, even though its probably been fine for the past forty years!
 
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It long as it's fully open, not leaking or touched, it will be fine.

Prefect if hidden by new cupboards.
 
The cooker unit will be going next to this so I will have the whole of the small cupboard beneath to play with.

Thanks for the advice!!
 
While your plumber connects your sink and other water appliances get him/her to change for this type of isolation
valve.unable to see inlet pipe as some dickhead has left a tape measure in the way.
www.screwfix.com 30584
 
If the stopcock was 1/2" BSP there would not be the 2 nuts either side of it. It'll possibly be 1/2" compression if the house was built before 1972/72 as that's when we went metric in copper sizes.
It might help if you could get a more accurate date.
The black pipe will be 1/2" alkathene.

It might be an idea to look at fitting a Remote Surestop. You might have to convert to 15mm copper though.

surestop_remote__64292_std.jpg

The newer models have WRAS approval to be used as a primary stopcock.
 
Why not service the valve and fit new washer?
 
Looking at the picture again, do you suffer with water hammer?
 
I assume you can isolate the water supply to enable you to work on this stop cock.
Anyway leave it to your professional plumber who will be doing the kitchen plumbing,or are you attempting a diy effort. :?:
 
"It'll possibly be 1/2" compression if the house was built before 1972/72 as that's when we went metric in copper sizes"

Deeds say 1971.

It does have 1/2" in raised lettering on the side of the stop cock.

I put the tape measure there to show scale thinking it might help.

Would it be easier to replace the straight through compression joint and go from there? I wasn't planning on getting a plumber to do any work as the sink etc are in the same place and all the ends have flexi connections on anyway.
 
I assume you can isolate the water supply to enable you to work on this stop cock.
Anyway leave it to your professional plumber who will be doing the kitchen plumbing,or are you attempting a diy effort. :?:

Yes I can shut it off in the street.
 
Would it be easier to replace the straight through compression joint
You'll need a 1/2" alkathene x 15mm copper coupler. Kuterlite 1710KP, Prestex PL40A or similar. Bear in mind that your copper pipe is probably 1/2" imperial.
 

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