Table lamps, via wall switches, do I need an FCU

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HelterSkelter77

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Hi Guys, hope you can help.

I am in the process of preparing some new internal stud walls for wiring (am having a professional rewire in a few weeks time. Was planning on drilling the stud walls for all the cable routing holes, fitting back boxes etc this weekend in preparation.

The intention is to have table lamps and standing lamps connected by surface mounted Klik sockets (S28) and plugs, with the lamps controlled via normal wall switches (although the electrican doesn't know about this yet, and he has just gone on holiday for 2 weeks, so I can't seek his advice) ..... I have just realised though, that the Klik plugs are not fused. Does this mean that I will need to have an FCU next to each Klik socket?

Have spent the evening Googling the subject, but can't find an answer anywhere. Any help appreciated.

Thank you
 
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Thank you for your reply Alarm.

Can anyone back this up with more info?
I have found loads of websites selling Klik plugs and sockets for domestic use, not just commercial ..... but cannot get my head around how you can have lamps that are not fused, and get the electrics signed off.

Any more info would be a real help.

Thank you.
 
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Thank you holmslaw, that's really great to hear. All makes sense now.

You are correct, I am using flush (S28) not surface, that was a slip of the keyboard ... however, it does lead me onto another related question.

I am intending on the Klik sockets being installed behind small access panels (timloc / reversidoor). Likewise, my bathroom underfloor heating control and fcu is behind an access panel in the landing.

I am aware that it is common in commercial shop fitting for switches etc hidden in trap doors, is there anything in domestic regulations that prohibit such things.

Any help appreciated.
 
There's nothing against it, but I'm trying to figure out what benefit it would really bring for a few free-standing lights in a simple domestic situation. A simple 2-amp or 5-amp flush socket at each location required would be much easier to install, cheaper, and just as neat, surely?
 
Cheers Paul_C, really appreciated.

There will be a lot of lamps (15 approx in the house), and i want the ability to move them around (I have a bit of a fetish for lamps!), which is why I wanted the Klik plugs. All to be controlled via wall switches and a home automation system for automatic setting of levels.

The reason for the concealed doors / access panels, is that Klik plugs have horizontal flex outlets, and hence would only allow furniture in front of a socket position to be approx 2inches from the wall without bending the flex. So, my theory was to use the access panel with a slot for the flex to come through, so that I ended up with a true flush solution. Also, for floor lamps, any excess flex can be tucked into the panel to reduce the amount of floor trailing wire ... mainly for asthetic reasons ... let still allow the lamp to be moved for cleaning.

Maybe overkill I know, Not worried about the install time, just want to make sure it is all ok as far as regs are concerned.

Hope this make sense.

Michael
 
HelterSkelter77 said:
I am in the process of preparing some new internal stud walls for wiring (am having a professional rewire in a few weeks time. Was planning on drilling the stud walls for all the cable routing holes, fitting back boxes etc this weekend in preparation.
Click to expand...
I hope you've discussed and agreed everything to do with that work with your electrician


(although the electrican doesn't know about this yet, and he has just gone on holiday for 2 weeks, so I can't seek his advice)
Click to expand...
Imagine my surprise.


..... I have just realised though, that the Klik plugs are not fused. Does this mean that I will need to have an FCU next to each Klik socket?
Click to expand...
Please wait until your electrician returns from holiday - you are too ignorant of the fundamentals to be doing design work.


HelterSkelter77 said:
but cannot get my head around how you can have lamps that are not fused, and get the electrics signed off.
Click to expand...
You don't have to, as you aren't doing (i.e. must not do) the design work.

Your electrician is the one who'll have to sign a declaration to say he did the design, so he must be the one to actually do it, and he won't have any problems getting his head around it, because he understands it all.


HelterSkelter77 said:
The reason for the concealed doors / access panels, is that Klik plugs have horizontal flex outlets, and hence would only allow furniture in front of a socket position to be approx 2inches from the wall without bending the flex.
Click to expand...
But BS 546 plugs don't do they?

Which your electrician could have told you if you'd waited for him.
 
HelterSkelter77 said:
Cheers Paul_C, really appreciated.

There will be a lot of lamps (15 approx in the house), and i want the ability to move them around (I have a bit of a fetish for lamps!), which is why I wanted the Klik plugs. All to be controlled via wall switches and a home automation system for automatic setting of levels.

The reason for the concealed doors / access panels, is that Klik plugs have horizontal flex outlets, and hence would only allow furniture in front of a socket position to be approx 2inches from the wall without bending the flex. So, my theory was to use the access panel with a slot for the flex to come through, so that I ended up with a true flush solution. Also, for floor lamps, any excess flex can be tucked into the panel to reduce the amount of floor trailing wire ... mainly for asthetic reasons ... let still allow the lamp to be moved for cleaning.

Maybe overkill I know, Not worried about the install time, just want to make sure it is all ok as far as regs are concerned.

Hope this make sense.

Michael
Click to expand...

I have klik sockets throughout the house fed off the 6amp lighting circuit, I used klik at first because I already had some, then when I extended i used them to keep standardised, in hindsight I thing 5amp round pin sockets would look better, mainly because of the flex sticking out of the back of the Klik plug
 
I am not doing the electrical design work, or any of the wiring at all. That is all going to be done by the electrican. However, he has asked me to position back boxes etc where I want them, and to predrill wiring routes through the stud walls (after a lengthy discussion re wiring routes and wiring protection). He will be designing the wiring configuration, laying cabling, connecting it all up. If I got any routes wrong, he can rectify accordingly. But at least, some donkey work will be done.

You are right ban-all-sheds, I do not need to know the reasons as to whether unfused lamp plugs / sockets are ok from a technical point of view, but I do need to know whether it is OK fundamentally, so that I can continue positioning Klik sockets in readiness. That is the only reason I am asking.

The fundamental design of how the rooms will look is down to me though, not the electrician .... hence I was asking whether it is ok with building regs, to have a light socket within an access panel.

I am simply trying to get everything as far advanced I can in readiness, and hence the reasons I was asking for expert advice from your good selves.

Thank you.
 
Thanks crystal ball and ban-all-sheds.

I have taken a look at BS546 round pin, I agree, this will be a neater solution. I thought the Klik system looked great, but in a domestic environment, the horizontal flex outlet is not pretty (or convenient re furniture in front of sockets).

Cheers
 
Are the Klik sockets shuttered? If not, they may not be permitted for domestic use. Also make sure the plugs have sleeved pins.

BS546 are available in a wider range of colours and finishes too, and you won't have compatibility problems with different manufacturers. You can also get 5A and 15A trailing sockets (usually in black rubber for theatre use) so you can make extension leads for your lamps if necessary.
 
Cheers OwainDIYer
Yes, they are shuttered.

However, following the info from previous replies (thank you all), I have decided to go for BS546. From every aspect, they seem a better route for me, simple, straightforward and seem to be widely accepted as the route to go for domestic lighting circuits. Totally happy. I had become 'single minded' in the decision to go with Klik, despite some issues that I had come across regarding the way they will look asthetically when I started to install them. Changing to round pin BS546 solves the issues (no need for the 'access panel' to hide them away).

Have now changed the backboxes that I installed last night, and will continue installing the remainder accordingly.

Thank you :)
 
Are the Klik sockets shuttered? If not, they may not be permitted for domestic use.
Click to expand...

There's nothing which would specifically disallow that.

However, following the info from previous replies (thank you all), I have decided to go for BS546. From every aspect, they seem a better route for me, simple, straightforward and seem to be widely accepted as the route to go for domestic lighting circuits.
Click to expand...

Personally, I think that's a wise choice.
 
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