Connection unit/junction box

Gary0 · 29 Nov 2005

Can one buy what would be the equivalent of an unfused unswitched connection unit ? (It would need a minimum of 4 terminals. I'd need to connect 4 lighting cables.) Before anyone asks, I am trying to avoid hidden/inaccessible junction boxes above the ceiling - please humour me.

Or alternatively, am I left with putting a choc block in a box ?

If the latter, could someone comment on anything I should be particularly aware of to ensure it would be acceptable/safe please ?

Cheers.

JohnD · 29 Nov 2005

You're talking about a Junction Box, aren't you?

For lighting a 5A, 4-terminal would be correct, but if you want plenty of room for the conductors, a 20A is available, bigger and still s/be less than £1

The cable sheathing must not be cut back outside the box.

Gary0 · 29 Nov 2005

I am , and I'm not.

Yes that is exactly the function I want, but I don't want to have the cables on show.

Done a lot of thinking and changing my mind about this already. My initial act was to go out and get one of those. At the time I was contemplating fitting it next to the fluorescent light but have since rejected that idea. As I didn't want to see the cables, it doesn't allow the cables to enter at the back, nor can one turn the cover to close all the side entries.

I don't want to go through the whole boring thought process, but I've decided the best bet is a box high on/in the wall. That way the cables aren't seen.

But I can't seem to find a suitable 'unit' to achieve this.

JohnD · 29 Nov 2005

An Adaptable Box will do the trick

Is there anything in
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/sea... box&n=&cd=1&pn=1&pi=1&ts=92990&pd=1&cn=1&s=0
that you like the look of?

I can't see a suitable item in my (out of date) MK cat.

Gary0 · 29 Nov 2005

Thanks for that. Did spot the adaptable box last night, Wasn't sure what was significantly different between them and the standard metal box I fit the switches into, but a definite possibility.

But that brings me back to my other question. If I'm using one with a choc block connector, What ought I be aware of ? Is there a better method than covering the connector in several layers of electrical tape ?

JohnD · 29 Nov 2005

IIRC the adaptable boxes I've used have had extra ribs and screw-holes moulded into them so you can fasten your connection block securely. Haven't got one to hand though. I think that's why they're described as adaptable.

Gary0 · 29 Nov 2005

Great, I need a few more items anyway, I'll put one in the order.
Cheers.

pdcelec · 30 Nov 2005

You could fit din rail in the box and use din rail connectors. Very professional, suits you sir.

Gary0 · 16 Dec 2005

Have to say that this bit isn't going so well.

Bought an adaptable box (from tlc rather than the screwfix one shown, as it was less deep). Turned out not to have anything to attach a choc block too. Decided to try using it anyway.

Have now realised that as a metal box it will have to be earthed, and there is no intergral earth terminal. Is there a way to add an earth terminal ?

Thanks.

teachergeezer · 16 Dec 2005

Put a 4 mm hole in the box, red or blue ring crimps on the end of the sleeved cpcs, and connect them all together. You could/should (don't want to start a seperate debate) then do loop impedance tests from all lighting points to check that your cpcs are continuous and you have a good connection. If the box is galv, no problem. If it's black enamel painted, scrape some of the paint off around the hole to ensure a good connection.
Alternatively you could one of those connection boxes favoured on CH systems. They are effectively a double pattress box with a 15A connector strip securely fixed inside. They have a voltage warning label on the cover, which is just a double blank plate. Just be certain to
a) fix the box securely, and
b) clip the cables so that strain is avoided on the terminations.

Job done.

Gary0 · 16 Dec 2005

Excellent, thanks.

The box I have has push outs for holes anyway (was only using 2 to fix to walls so could measure/open up one of the others to use).

It is galvanized so paint isn't a problem.

Regarding your other suggestion, do you know where they might do smaller versions ? I have one of those types in the airing cupboard/hot tank upstairs, but that size would be too obtrusive where I want to fit this. (Thinking about it, to be honest I'll probably go with the first suggestion anyway. Otherwise the box size grows further. Thanks.)

teachergeezer · 16 Dec 2005

I'm not aware of smaller ones. I guess a single pattress box serves the same purpose, it's just that you can't easily fix the connector strip. You could fix the strip with some M4 brass screws and nuts; you'd need to drill the back very carefully with a very sharp drill bit, avoiding areas obviously weakened as a knockout.
You're probably best using the box you already have.

Gary0 · 16 Dec 2005

Measured the push outs, they are 4mm so that's probably no coincidence. I take it I need to fit some kind of screw/post to connect the crimps all together, to. Time for a quick trip to the local DIY superstore I think.

Thanks for your time/experience.

teachergeezer · 16 Dec 2005

Get some M4s with some nuts. They are brass machined screws, 4mm in diameter & come in different lengths and are the best thing for the job. Either try your local DIY store, or look up 'City Electrical Factors' or 'Edmundson Electrical' in the yellow pages. They will know exactly what you mean and will (hopefully) sell them individually - seems a shame to buy a bag of 100 screws and 100 nuts when you only need 2 of each for a few pence!
Do be aware that the nuts on the back will make the box stand off the surface by a few mm, so best to make a small indentation where they will touch the wall to get the box flat against it.
Good luck.

plugwash · 16 Dec 2005

is there any need to fix down the terminal block anyway? if its inside a box and the cables are fixed then i can't see why it would need to be restrained.

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Connection unit/junction box

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