Potterton Suprima tripping out
- Thread starter RobD
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B
breezer
all sorts of things, what type of boiler have you what make, what type of sytem, more information
There are a lot of posts on the Suprima mate. Chances are it is your PCB that needs replacing but I would recommend you contact a potterton approved engineer and get them to fault find it mate before you do owt
Breezer is right could be a lot of things so get someone to check it out
Breezer is right could be a lot of things so get someone to check it out
I did get a corgi bloke out but he said he didnt know what it was cos it was an intermittent fault.
The manual says red light flashing is 'Lockout' but that's all. It also goes into red light flashing mode when the overheat sensor works. However, it sometimes wont reset even when its cold.
Main temperature sensor perhaps??
Dont want to replace the PCB if its something cheaper.
btw its a potterton suprima 50
Rob
The manual says red light flashing is 'Lockout' but that's all. It also goes into red light flashing mode when the overheat sensor works. However, it sometimes wont reset even when its cold.
Main temperature sensor perhaps??
Dont want to replace the PCB if its something cheaper.
btw its a potterton suprima 50
Rob
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Most of the components can be checked with a meter.
Air pressure switch, overheat stat, boiler stat, gas valve solinoids but if the fault is intermittent it's highly likley it is caused by poor soldered joints on the back of the pcb.
Remove all power to the boiler and remove the plug in terminals and four screws holding the pcb in place.
You may need to use a magnifying glass to examine the soldering especially where the plug in terminals are soldered.
Options are.
(a) re solder the poor joints
(b) replace with a reconditioned pcb £45
(c) replace with a new pcb £135
If you do a search for 'suprima' you will find considerable information on this very same problem
Air pressure switch, overheat stat, boiler stat, gas valve solinoids but if the fault is intermittent it's highly likley it is caused by poor soldered joints on the back of the pcb.
Remove all power to the boiler and remove the plug in terminals and four screws holding the pcb in place.
You may need to use a magnifying glass to examine the soldering especially where the plug in terminals are soldered.
Options are.
(a) re solder the poor joints
(b) replace with a reconditioned pcb £45
(c) replace with a new pcb £135
If you do a search for 'suprima' you will find considerable information on this very same problem
you can get your new pcb from www.curzoncare.co.uk about £134 trade.
Potterton introduced a improved version about 18 months ago.
Potterton introduced a improved version about 18 months ago.
RobD said:My boiler keeps tripping out. About once every day or two it goes into standby mode (red light flashing) and refuses to do anything untill the reset button is pressed.
What might cause this?????
Rob, did you get this one sorted? I have the same problem and assume is the temp sensor but haven't had it checked yet
I had exactly the same problem with my Suprima 60L. Thanks to the advice I got from this forum, I removed and checked the PCB. Examining the soldered joints with a magnifying glass I found a LOT of seriously dodgy joints. Having resoldered them and refitted the board, it has not given me a problem since (Nearly two weeks now) It was tripping out up to three times a day... The whole job took me about 35-40 minutes from start to finish.
I have no idea how fragile the PCB is, but I took care to handle only the edges of the board, and made sure I had no static charge before I commenced work. I know a lot of modern PCB's will blow if you look at 'em.... So TAKE CARE...
Comfortable and warm Flashbang..
I have no idea how fragile the PCB is, but I took care to handle only the edges of the board, and made sure I had no static charge before I commenced work. I know a lot of modern PCB's will blow if you look at 'em.... So TAKE CARE...
Comfortable and warm Flashbang..
Me too, had the same problem suprima 50. Did the same reflowed all the main solder joints (had hairline craks barely visable) and it's worked fine ever since All thanks to this forum. Saved me loads of money
AL
ps remember to make a note of where all the wires go before you take the pcb out! as well as isolating the mains supply! Saftey first!
All thanks to this forum. Saved me loads of money AL
ps remember to make a note of where all the wires go before you take the pcb out! as well as isolating the mains supply! Saftey first!
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After 5 years , my Suprima 70 is doing the 'lockout' . I have had the PCB replaced twice recently as well as the overheat thermostat but still same. It's been suggested I should have the pump over-run wired in, but it has been OK without it for 5 years and it only 'locks out' when cold - never when heating is on.
Could pump over run cure it? I can't comprehend why it should!
Julian
Could pump over run cure it? I can't comprehend why it should!
Julian
Hi the same problem has been plaguing us too.
First of all replacement of the Thermistor did the trick £8.80
But problem came back after 6 months.
Its not the Overheat thermo approx £6
These are both easy to replace and test. Thermistor pull out on plastic clip.
The overheat sensor unscrew with a spammer. fiddly dependant upon how the boiler is installed as reall need space to lefthand side, or suitable box spanner.
The guy at the spares counter said its the worst boiler known to them for problems with the PCB and often is the resistors on the board apart from dry joints.
The Resistors are 6 band types. Anybody help with the values of R33, R34, R37, R38, R84, R85, R87, R88, R41 and R42?
They appear all to be the same value but colours are difficult to ascertain
Most are wired in series. BUT on my board the resistance of R37 and R38 is quite different from rest and this appear to be wired to one lead of Temperature Thermistor.
Any help would be appreciated and also where replacement resistors can be sourced from.
Finally one other thing. If you have retro installed TRV's then unless you have a Automatic Pump Bypass valve fitted (Now mandatory on new installations under Part L of the new Building Regulations) this may also cause Lockout.
It seems although the Installation Instructions for the Suprima say that 1" (28mm) Flow and Return pipework is required to Pump and a Bypass of at least 1.6m if the CH and HW circuits are controlled by Motorised Valves. Often the bypass is a 15mm constant circuit to the Bathroom Rad rather than 22mm. 15mm is not as recommended - Also this rad MUST have fully open lockshields on it to work. Yes it seems to work most of the time, but is not as recommended.
First of all replacement of the Thermistor did the trick £8.80
But problem came back after 6 months.
Its not the Overheat thermo approx £6
These are both easy to replace and test. Thermistor pull out on plastic clip.
The overheat sensor unscrew with a spammer. fiddly dependant upon how the boiler is installed as reall need space to lefthand side, or suitable box spanner.
The guy at the spares counter said its the worst boiler known to them for problems with the PCB and often is the resistors on the board apart from dry joints.
The Resistors are 6 band types. Anybody help with the values of R33, R34, R37, R38, R84, R85, R87, R88, R41 and R42?
They appear all to be the same value but colours are difficult to ascertain
Most are wired in series. BUT on my board the resistance of R37 and R38 is quite different from rest and this appear to be wired to one lead of Temperature Thermistor.
Any help would be appreciated and also where replacement resistors can be sourced from.
Finally one other thing. If you have retro installed TRV's then unless you have a Automatic Pump Bypass valve fitted (Now mandatory on new installations under Part L of the new Building Regulations) this may also cause Lockout.
It seems although the Installation Instructions for the Suprima say that 1" (28mm) Flow and Return pipework is required to Pump and a Bypass of at least 1.6m if the CH and HW circuits are controlled by Motorised Valves. Often the bypass is a 15mm constant circuit to the Bathroom Rad rather than 22mm. 15mm is not as recommended - Also this rad MUST have fully open lockshields on it to work. Yes it seems to work most of the time, but is not as recommended.
B
breezer
can you say what colour bands are on the resistors, this identifys what value it is. you should never check an component for resistance while it is still connected this is because other components wired in with it can affect the reading.
when you have got your colours sorted put them in here its easier than tell you the poem about rosie going off to birmingham which is how i remeber the resistor colour code.
you can then get new resistors from maplin
you should also get the same wattage resistor
when you have got your colours sorted put them in here its easier than tell you the poem about rosie going off to birmingham which is how i remeber the resistor colour code.
you can then get new resistors from maplin
you should also get the same wattage resistor
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