DIYnot
Local | Network
   DIYnot > Forums
Local | Network
DIYnot Network Local DIYnot Network Local  
  Forum IndexForum Index     RulesRules    HelpHelp     Join FREERegister Free     About CookiesCookies     SearchSearch     LoginLogin 

How to replace washing machine bearings?


 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    DIYnot.com Forum Index > Plumbing and Central Heating
Search this topic :: View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
AL

from United Kingdom

Joined: 23 Sep 2003
Posts: 89
Location: United Kingdom

PostPosted: Fri Oct 24, 2003 5:31 pm Reply with quote

Hi There,

My washing machine has got really noisey recently (sounded like the bearings had dryed out) i took the back off the machine to find that half of the ball bearings have broken up, which are supposed to support the drum. My question is how am i supposed to repplace them, do i need to try and take the drum out which envolves removeing the water seals and stuff or should i try to prise the old ones out and hammer/press the new ones in?

any tips / advice is much appreciated

heres a picture so you can see what i'm on about icon_wink.gif

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/alec.green/Garbage/WashingMachine.JPG
Back to top
 Alert Moderators

If you do not want to see this advert, click here to login or if you are new click here to join free.
oilman

from United Kingdom

Joined: 16 Sep 2003
Posts: 7965
Location: United Kingdom
Thanked: 26 times

PostPosted: Fri Oct 24, 2003 8:38 pm Reply with quote

Excellent picture, a helpful thought.

Don't prize the bearing out, you MUST use a puller. If you don't, you will jam the bearing in the housing.

To replace the bearing use a fitter or a press. This is important or you may have a lot of new words that you will need to find how to spell.
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
breezer

from United Kingdom

Joined: 03 Jan 2003
Posts: 23328
Location: Sussex,
United Kingdom
Thanked: 27 times

PostPosted: Fri Oct 24, 2003 9:29 pm Reply with quote

what bearings? icon_lol.gif at a certain company they came up with a clever device for pulling out bearings.(its not a "true" bearing puller)

It is a washer bigger than the outer bearing, a tube bigger than the tube washer, and a high tensile steel nut & bolt and a bigger than the inside bearing washer.

You put the smaller washer on the bolt poke it from the inside of the drum, through the big bearing, put on the tube and the big washer and the nut, now all you do is tighten the nut and it pulls the bearing out.

to get the inner bearing out it was the same procedure but using the bigger washer and you poke it from the outside where the old bearing was. to put the new bearings IN, you put both bearings and washers on but no tube and tighten up the nut, it slowly pulls both bearings in, (oh and the seal)

trouble is you do have to take the m/c apart to get the inner drum out and you should also change the spider (inner drum support) as this is what caused the seal to go which let water in which ruined the bearings.

Unless you have a couple of hours to spare (I confess it was what i used to do, it took me about an hour and i knew how to do it) i would buy a new m/c, yes bearings are cheap, but that looks like an enamled outer tub, they quite often rust and develop small holes, making the tub usless.

what you should ask is how it got in that state in the first place, the answer more often than not is the drum is OVERLOADED, causing it to spin slightly out of balance, pulling to one side so wearing out the seal etc, our m/c is over 6 years old NEVER overloaded and all i have had to do is to change one set of motor brushes
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
Scoby_Beasley

from United Kingdom

Joined: 01 May 2003
Posts: 1880
Location: Durham,
United Kingdom
Thanked: 50 times

PostPosted: Fri Oct 24, 2003 9:43 pm Reply with quote

breezers right, if you were to actually pay someone to replace the bearings you'd find it cheaper to replace the w m/c.
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
breezer

from United Kingdom

Joined: 03 Jan 2003
Posts: 23328
Location: Sussex,
United Kingdom
Thanked: 27 times

PostPosted: Fri Oct 24, 2003 9:46 pm Reply with quote

it is more a case of it is so close (to new price) and if you don't put the seals back right it leaks, so more hassle of finding leak, where as doing it yourself takes hours, you may get it wrong, but either way you still have an old m/c
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
AL

from United Kingdom

Joined: 23 Sep 2003
Posts: 89
Location: United Kingdom

PostPosted: Sat Oct 25, 2003 9:01 am Reply with quote

doohh! Not really what i was hoping to hear but i guess you guys have saved me wasting loads of my time and money. It' just frustrating having to bin what is otherwise a working machine.

I think the reason it has died is where it is located. I had it on a non concrete floor (just floor boards) and the machine did a kinda dance so i put a few concrete paving slabs on top to stop it moving hence putting all the forces directly on those poor little bearings RIP.

Oh well, we live and learn, but when i buy a new one i am going to have to put it in the same place so i guess i'm going to have the same problem and the machines life will be cut short again (it was 3 years old). I don't know what else i can do, apart from have it outside in the shed but that would mean taking the electricity and water out into the shed which would be a major pain. Ideas?

AL
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
breezer

from United Kingdom

Joined: 03 Jan 2003
Posts: 23328
Location: Sussex,
United Kingdom
Thanked: 27 times

PostPosted: Sat Oct 25, 2003 9:20 am Reply with quote

the reason it wobbles is as i previously said it is over loaded.

a washing m/c should be level when installing it, some have an adjustable foot / feet to compensate for uneven floors, you should be able to push the m/c on the top (corner to corner) and it should not wobble or move when empty and sationary.

it is not for me to say, but i know that Hotpoint m/c have out of balance detection, this means that if the wash load is wrong it will not spin it at full speed, (if at all) thereby prolonging the life of the m/c

other manufacturers may have followed suit, but as i don't work for any domestic appliance company any more i can not say.

on the lighter side many moons ago i got sent to a job as "door wont open" i opened the door (as enginneers can) and struggled (but i got it out) a carpet, yes a carpet (not a rug) so it is quite often common for m/c to be over loaded.

as a rule of thumb, when loading a m/c you should be able to look across the washload and see the back of the drum, if you can't take some of the washload out.

A m/c relys on having space for the load to move / fall over itself as that is how they work
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
Search this topic :: View previous topic :: View next topic  
Post new topic   Reply to topic    DIYnot.com Forum Index > Plumbing and Central Heating All times are GMT
Page 1 of 1

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
Similar Topics   Replies   Views   Posted 
Worcester Heatslave Rumble - Fan bearings? 5 580 Tue Sep 15, 2009 3:23 pm
One for oilman - Whining Riello burner - Changing bearings 13 3220 Thu Apr 12, 2007 6:48 pm
hotpoint wma30 replacing bearings cant move plastic pins 2 260 Wed Jan 13, 2010 5:08 pm
Boiler fan bearings 4 1060 Tue Dec 11, 2007 7:24 am
Pump bearings' job? 8 400 Thu Feb 25, 2010 3:00 pm


 
DIYnot
Find an Expert | Find a Supplier | Search DIYnot.com
Network | Advertising | Newsletter
DIY | DIY How To | @home | DIY Wiki | DIY Forum
By using this site you agree to our Terms of Service / Disclaimer.
Please read our Privacy Policy. Copyright © 2000-2014 DIYnot Limited.