Flourescent strip light in loft

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Why wouldn't you take it off the lighting circuit that is upstairs?
 
Why wouldn't you take it off the lighting circuit that is upstairs?
One possible reason .... one use of a light in a loft is to enable work to be done on the upstairs lighting circuit, usually present in the loft. If one uses the upstairs lighting circuit to power the loft light, then this isn't possible.

Kind Regards, John
 
Can you easily run the mains up into the loft area?

If not then an alternative but more costly option would be something like :-
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Energy_Saving_Index/LEDlite_Modulars/index.html

The panel itself is equivalent to 6*18W fluorescent tubes or 108W of florescent lighting (may want to think about a dimmer!).
If mains fails the 9am battery keeps it powered at 65% (65W) for 3 hours.

It is a lot more expensive option but saves having to run mains from a wall socket up there.
If you do go ahead and run mains up there then I would suggest putting in a non maintained emergency light as well. It gets pretty dark up there at night if there is a sudden power cut and you done want to be putting your foot through the ceiling or falling through the hatch.
 
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Is this possible
Yes, you will require to take a fuse connection unit and down use it from 13A to 1A-5A fuse. The cable will be required to be routed in the permitted safe zones if chased in to walls and very likely require RCD protection if this does not already exist on circuit. the load cable can go directly to the switch, where the neutrals are connected together and continue to light and you will have a perm live to common and a switch live to live to light, also an earth must be continuous throughout.
and safe?
If done correctly and proved via using the correct testing procedures.

//www.diynot.com/wiki/Electrics:walls

//www.diynot.com/wiki/Electrics:Inspection-and-Testing
 
Yes, you will require to take a fuse connection unit and down use it from 13A to 1A-5A fuse. The cable will be required to be routed in the permitted safe zones if chased in to walls and very likely require RCD protection if this does not already exist on circuit. the load cable can go directly to the switch, where the neutrals are connected together and continue to light and you will have a perm live to common and a switch live to live to light, also an earth must be continuous throughout.
... or, alternatively, a switched FCU could be sited in the loft and also act as the light switch (unless, that is, you would be unhappy with having the FCU a few feet from the origin of the spur!)

Kind Regards, John
 
... or, alternatively, a switched FCU could be sited in the loft and also act as the light switch (unless, that is, you would be unhappy with having the FCU a few feet from the origin of the spur!)

I prefer to have FCU as close as possible to the point of supply, but have no objections to short distance.
 
I prefer to have FCU as close as possible to the point of supply, but have no objections to short distance.
Fair enough. In practice, if one did the calculations, I feel sure that one would find that the circuit's main OPD would provide more than adequate fault protection to the cable.

Kind Regards, John
 
Can you easily run the mains up into the loft area?

If not then an alternative but more costly option would be something like :-
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Energy_Saving_Index/LEDlite_Modulars/index.html

The panel itself is equivalent to 6*18W fluorescent tubes or 108W of florescent lighting (may want to think about a dimmer!).
If mains fails the 9am battery keeps it powered at 65% (65W) for 3 hours.

It is a lot more expensive option but saves having to run mains from a wall socket up there.
Am I missing something, or is this idea deeply flawed?

If there's no supply to the light, what recharges the battery?
 
Can you easily run the mains up into the loft area?

If not then an alternative but more costly option would be something like :-
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Energy_Saving_Index/LEDlite_Modulars/index.html

The panel itself is equivalent to 6*18W fluorescent tubes or 108W of florescent lighting (may want to think about a dimmer!).
If mains fails the 9am battery keeps it powered at 65% (65W) for 3 hours.

It is a lot more expensive option but saves having to run mains from a wall socket up there.
Am I missing something, or is this idea deeply flawed?

If there's no supply to the light, what recharges the battery?

The supply to the light is the existing lighting circuit which is already in the loft.
The LED panel combined with the good sized battery backup just means when the lighting circuit is turned off the light still provides plenty of illumination for up to 3 hours.
 
Ah - I see.

When you said "mains" you meant "socket circuit".

The lighting circuit already there is also "mains".
 
Can you easily run the mains up into the loft area? If not ...
Am I missing something, or is this idea deeply flawed? If there's no supply to the light, what recharges the battery?
I think what you are probably missing is that gblades presumably meant that if the OP could not easily run a cable from a sockets circuit to the loft (and hence had to wire loft light from upstairs lighting circuit) the problem I mentioned of needing light to work on the upstairs lighting circuit in the loft could be addressed by the loft light being a non-maintained emergency light (battery normally charged up from lighting circuit).

Edit: damn - too slow again!

Kind Regards, John
 

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