cutting laminate flooring around door frame and architrave

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Is this sensible as opposed to cutting away the frame and architrave to slip the flooring under. I use templates to achieve a near perfect match and fill with wood colour acrylic filler. Which option is preferable and why?
 
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trust me undercutting is best
colour match is approximate it seems to attract dirt it dries out and shrinks overtime :cry:

apart from that its ok ;)
 
I thought the idea was to have a 10mm expansion gap, so filling it would defeat the object wouldn't it?
:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 
MANDATE said:
I thought the idea was to have a 10mm expansion gap, so filling it would defeat the object wouldn't it?
:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

well its quite spongy so it does give
the 10mm is in my opinion manufacturers overkill you only need about 1mm a foot if properly acclimatized[minimum 6]
 
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100% CUT THE FRAME.
I find using a hack saw with a 45 degree fitting is the easiest way, saves your nuckles ;)
 
I'm just about to attempt the same this weekend - I'm definitely going to cut away at the frame and was going to post for any possible tips (before I saw this thread).
I have a hack-saw, but the bottom of the a certain frame hides behind a door. Is it recommended that a chisel and hammer can be used to knock out those 'hard to reach places'? I'll struggle to cut away at some angles...mind you I'll be taking one door off to it opening inwardly.

the 10mm is in my opinion manufacturers overkill you only need about 1mm a foot if properly acclimatized[minimum 6]

Really? My instructions (forget the brand but they were standard in floors-to-go) advise a gap of 14mm!! I've yet to buy the skirting but I'm probably going to go for 6" plank - 17mm thickness - leaves me only 3mm to hide the darned laminates!
But I could work on the 1mm per foot (they've been acclimatising for the past 4 weeks!!).

A kind poster advised me to add cork beading around the bottom of the curved stair (in the hall - keeping the current skirting there and have the straight beading for the remaining walls), however I cannot seem to lay my hands on this stuff. Any pointers?

Much appreciated.
 
This is all good information but isn't it based on the assumption that the laminate is at its smallest dimension when laid and will expand. But what if the laminate is at its largest size when laid and can only contract. The so called expansion gap will become larger and may show. The problem is that it is not known if the laminate is in a contracted or expanded state or something inbetween when being laid.
:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 
MANDATE said:
This is all good information but isn't it based on the assumption that the laminate is at its smallest dimension when laid and will expand. But what if the laminate is at its largest size when laid and can only contract. The so called expansion gap will become larger and may show. The problem is that it is not known if the laminate is in a contracted or expanded state or something inbetween when being laid.
:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

i would personally say if properly acclimatised it will be in the average [neutral] state
but because over 90%of problems are expansion related manufacturers overdo it on that side of caution and fitters have to follow instructions to validate g/tees

i personally recon on 1mm per ft minimum 6mm clearance
with this rule adapted to circumstance
but you can only work out the exact expansion if you know the continuos temperature and moisture content otherwise averages with a safety margin are required
 
Not sure if you mean real Melamine laminate (The plastic stuff?) or wood-engineered flooring?
For both 10mm expansion is sufficient, for solids the following rule of thumb goes: 3mm expansion per meter wide with a minimum of 10mm.

p.s. have cork strips available for you, if needed.

p.p.s. the 'retailer' (well more a floor-shed) can't give you info, can they? ;)
 
I'm happy to start a new thread but my problem is;
I have a hard floor base (some sort of tile) in my hall, wooden door frames but my skirting boards are cement! So can not be removed and placed back over the laminate flooring.
I did consider fitting new thin boards but couldn't find anything that thin, also it would look strange jutting out beyond the line of the architrave!

I think if I cut into the architrave of each door it will maybe show up even more when the boards sit outside the skirting! (I hate the site of quadrant, I will not use it!)
I'm thinking of taking a risk and just making it a tight fit all round after letting the packs breath for a week! I'll aim to leave a 1mm gap either side and end and boards will not be stuck down so if I have a problem later at least I could pull up and trim or replace with some spare boards!
Questions;
Do laminate boards expand/contract in length and width and by how much?

Thanx for any replies and advice :rolleyes:
 
Thanx WoodYouLike for fast reply
I'll have a look in local DIY store, are there any good quality pics of this flat beading?
Good idea to see what exactly this looks like before I purchase!
Most of my hallway isn't that wide about 92cm, bit near stairs about double that.
What would you suggest the minimum gap I could risk for a hallway? (if I decide not to use a beading!)

Something else I looked at was cork, but that comes in 10mm strips, again a bit wide for my liking.

Thanx again
 
Think it is time I did make some proper pictures of the beading and I don't think you will find it in any DIY-shed.

As for cork - DON'T fill your expansion gap with anything, it is there for a reason. Even if it is laminated melamine plastic stuff, it does need between 7 to 10 mm gap all around.
 

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