The pilot igniter seems to have failed there is no spark even if I disconnect the wire and try jummping it on to earth. Pump and fan are running and I have continuity on igniter wire back to ignition board. Is it likely to be the board or is there anything else I can check first?
Ravenheat 85 igniter failure
- Thread starter ricsmit
- Start date
Sponsored Links
B
B.O.B DOLE
ricsmit said:
if i where you i would stick my tongue onto the igniter wire press the button and if you answer back tomorrow we know it does not work .
is there anything else I can check first? said ricmit
BIG BAD BOB DOLE....yes check your life insurance policy DONT FORGET ME IN THE WILL .......
B
B.O.B DOLE
chrishutt said:
chrishitt can spell read my lips ffffffff oooooooooooooofffffffffffffffffffffff
Sponsored Links
Have looked at the fault finding chart, it points to condensing trap sensor but that doesnt seem to be problem as there is continuity through it. Just wondered if it might have been a common fault. Dont want to start forking out on parts on trial and error.
There should not be continuity through it. The idea is that it drops the spark to earth if the condensate trap has a problem.ricsmit said:
Depending on the exact model you may be able to take it out of line. Contact Ravenheat technical dept for further advice on 0113 252 7007. I know it can be a pain getting through as their call centre procedures are not too clever, but once you are talking to them they are good at their jobs.
Most condensate trap electrodes are connected in parallel with the flame detection electrode and prevent detection of a flame if the trap is full.
I assume that if that were the case then the flame would light for a few seconds and go to flame lockout.
Tony
I assume that if that were the case then the flame would light for a few seconds and go to flame lockout.
Tony
make sure the condense pipe is clear aswell. Trap may look o.k. but if pipe blocked it can cause a vaccum and make the sensor believe its full.
Recently I have sorted out a couple of ravenheats that many had been to before me. The jobs were passed on to me through Ravenheat.
If the venturi is at 180º OR in line with the flue elbow you can get problems that point to the APS or ignition sequence.
Rotate the collar that holds the Venturi connection so that it is at 90º to the direction of the flue elbow. This involves removing the four screws on the flue elbow in order to turn it. Adjust the position of the APS if necessary to make sure there are no kinks in the sensor pipe.
One worked ok for six months before I had to do this and the other for two years. They just mysteriously pack in. Its to do with the air pressure near the venturi and the way the air flows in this region, but I cant explain why they work ok for a while its just what happens. Renewing the APS has no effect when this condition exists.
To all pro's out there who didn't know. Please remember this lesson well as it cost me a lot of time, effort and money to learn it.
If the venturi is at 180º OR in line with the flue elbow you can get problems that point to the APS or ignition sequence.
Rotate the collar that holds the Venturi connection so that it is at 90º to the direction of the flue elbow. This involves removing the four screws on the flue elbow in order to turn it. Adjust the position of the APS if necessary to make sure there are no kinks in the sensor pipe.
One worked ok for six months before I had to do this and the other for two years. They just mysteriously pack in. Its to do with the air pressure near the venturi and the way the air flows in this region, but I cant explain why they work ok for a while its just what happens. Renewing the APS has no effect when this condition exists.
To all pro's out there who didn't know. Please remember this lesson well as it cost me a lot of time, effort and money to learn it.
Thanks for help guys. as someone suggested it turned out to be a loose pressure pipe on the pressure switch. Fixed that and the igniter works and pilot now lights.
Now the main boiler wont light! acording to the fault finding chart its either the ignition board or the gas valve. It says check for 230v at pin ML. But I cant find this. Any suggestions?
Am I right in saying that the gas valve has two solenoids, one to operate the supply to the pilot and the other the main burner and in addition a modulator to control the pressure. Wondering if the second solenoid is stuck or its the electrical supply to it.
Now the main boiler wont light! acording to the fault finding chart its either the ignition board or the gas valve. It says check for 230v at pin ML. But I cant find this. Any suggestions?
Am I right in saying that the gas valve has two solenoids, one to operate the supply to the pilot and the other the main burner and in addition a modulator to control the pressure. Wondering if the second solenoid is stuck or its the electrical supply to it.
And to help RICS, the gas valve has two coils as you suggest. Check that voltage is being applied to both. If so measure the resistance of both. The main may be open circuit.
If there is only voltage on the pilot then temporarily disconnect the condensate trap connection and see if the PCB then powers the main solenoid. If so then check why the trap is full of water!
Tony
If there is only voltage on the pilot then temporarily disconnect the condensate trap connection and see if the PCB then powers the main solenoid. If so then check why the trap is full of water!
Tony
thanks Tony, tried to check the readings earlier but very difficult to get in.
Spoke to ravenheat but they were unwilling to discuss fully as I am not corgi registered but said that the gas valve was not getting rectification. I take it by this that one of the diodes is blown. If this is the case its only a 10pence repair against over £100. Anyone experienced this before I start removing and testing them?
Richard
Spoke to ravenheat but they were unwilling to discuss fully as I am not corgi registered but said that the gas valve was not getting rectification. I take it by this that one of the diodes is blown. If this is the case its only a 10pence repair against over £100. Anyone experienced this before I start removing and testing them?
Richard
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
