profile 60e tripping

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My boiler fires up ok then after 10mins starts rapid tripping. The pilot light doesn't go out but main burner keeps tripping. An engineer changed the pcb and pressure switch but still no joy!? He reckons I need a new boiler!
When I put hand pressure on the outer casing above the pilot window this stops the tripping and the burner stays on for longer. Must be something to do with the internal pressure. Casing gasket seems ok and tightly secured. Could it be a slow/faulty fan? Hope someone can help as I've just forked out and the problem still isn't fixed.
Mike
 
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may be the tubes (both the silicon ones and the steel ones) if they have broken they will cause this

also check the combustion cahmber seal

dont get rid its a great boiler
 
Is this the positive pressure one?, if so you could run a match around the casing to see if the seal is ok...I also fill the grommets underneath with silicone aswell as they blow fumes out. Also check the inner flue pipe outside isn't corroded.
 
Thanks guys, really appreciate the advice will check it all tomorrow and let you know what I find.
 
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I wonder if anyone has removed the restrictor in one tube to the APS.

Its purpose is to provide a longer time constant for the operation of the APS.

It could be proved that its APS operation causing the problem by manually operating the APS.

Tony
 
I've checked both tubes to APS and blown down them all appear ok.
I've checked the casing gasket which is ok.
I've put silicone on the grommets.
I've got a restrictor on one of the tubes attached to the APS end so that's ok.
I can hear the APS switching when it's tripping out the burner.
Could I change the sensetivity of the APS?
Don't know where to go next any ideas anyone?
 
pottyman said:
I've checked both tubes to APS and blown down them all appear ok.
I've checked the casing gasket which is ok.
I've put silicone on the grommets.
I've got a restrictor on one of the tubes attached to the APS end so that's ok.
I can hear the APS switching when it's tripping out the burner.
Could I change the sensetivity of the APS?
Don't know where to go next any ideas anyone?

have you tried a fan pressure test
 
Yes I'd go for a slow fan next, as bob says you can check the pressure by attatching a manometer to the pipe from the fan and compare it with the mb figure printed on the aps.
 
ollski said:
Yes I'd go for a slow fan next, as bob says you can check the pressure by attatching a manometer to the pipe from the fan and compare it with the mb figure printed on the aps.

normally anything under 1.5 mb will affect the aps
 
Yeah, I really think it must be the fan. but wouldn't the symptom occur straight from firing up cold instead of 5/10 mins after.
Guess I should call in an engineer to check fan pressure before buying a fan. Thanks for the idea.
 

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