parquet floor novice

daddynige · 23 Apr 2006

I want to lay tiles on an uneven asphalt floor. I have two different thickness of tile so thought i would build a wooden frame and use the one thickness within the frame first this i am hoping to use as a platform to level the second thickness up to the same height outside the frame. as i have never used bitumen i don't know how well my plan would work .I am concerned my tiles might start to sink if the bitumen is too thick is there a problem if its 15 to 25mm? secondly how do i go about heating up the bitumen do i use small amounts at a time does it go off quick. Once the floor is down i would need a floor sander to level the floor ? the tiles are mahogany 2x7inch by 3/4 inch the second thickness is 10mm

WoodYouLike · 24 Apr 2006

Sorry to say, but I can't imagine what you're trying to do. Could you be more specific?
BTW, I thought it was no longer allowed to use bitumen in house anymore, due to VOC rules?

daddynige · 24 Apr 2006

How should i level an uneven asphalt floor? what should i stick the parquet tiles with.I have two thickness of the tiles one is 20mm the other is 40mm will the suggested adhesive be able to fill the 20mm difference?

WoodYouLike · 25 Apr 2006

No adhesive will work as a leveling product. Either install sheet material first to level the differences out, or use screed.
After that you can use normal parquet adhesive.

daddynige · 25 Apr 2006

Thanks for your reply can i pick you brains a little further? Could i use a self levelling compound instead of a screed? Once the floor is level i still have the problem of the 20mm height difference between the two batches of parqet tiles will the adhesive accommodate this difference or is it an electric planer and floor sanding solution?

WoodYouLike · 26 Apr 2006

Leveling compound, screed, as long as it levels the floor out properly. (And you leave enough time for it to dry out.
Still think it's best to tackle the height difference with sheet material, adhesive can never cover a height difference of 20mm.

daddynige · 27 Apr 2006

Thanks again for your advice. I am going to make sure i level the floor as best i can then use my bench saw to bring down the depth of the 40mm tile nearer to 20mm .This would mean i can remove at the same time any bitumen as the 40mm batch is reclaimed where as the 20mm is new.Hopefully the sanding will level any further irregularity

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SASHWIZARD · 27 Apr 2006

Remember to mix the reclaimed and new blocks as you lay it rather than have a room half and half thats guessing they are the same width and length?????
Shame you are going to lose the tongues and grooves as they would help to keep the blocks level for sanding.

WoodYouLike · 28 Apr 2006

SASHWIZARD said:
Remember to mix the reclaimed and new blocks as you lay it rather than have a room half and half thats guessing they are the same width and length?????
Shame you are going to lose the tongues and grooves as they would help to keep the blocks level for sanding.

You're right about the widths and lengths when using reclaimed blocks and it will be a bit of a puzzle. But most small gaps can be filled using sand-dust (of the second sanding with grit 80) mixed with wood-filler.
On the T&G part, we frequently install herringbones and other patterned parquet flooring, blocks of 10mm thick without T&G. The 'trick' is to allow sufficiently bonding time. Normally after one night the adhesive will have bonded blocks to under- or sub - floor to allow sanding. That's also the reason why we always warn for allowing more time when residue bitumen is involved, the bonding time will take longer.

daddynige · 29 Apr 2006

I can cut the second batch of tiles with my bench saw so that the width lenght and depth match . none of these tiles have tonge and groove .The self levelling cement package advices degreasing the rock asphalt prior to application do i simply wash the floor with domestic detergent?

diynot

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parquet floor novice

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