Heated Towel Rail/Airing Cupboard - Combi Boiler Possible?

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Now the summer has nearly hit us and the heating has finally been turned off for the first time since we have had the combi fitted i'm realising another shortfall of not having a hot water cylinder in the airing cupboard.

When we had the combi fitted I asked the installer to fit me a small radiator in the airing cupboard so we could still get some use from it...now of course the heating is off its useless!

I was thinking about ways of somehow possibly wiring a stat in the airing cupboard in Parallel with the room stat downstairs and 2 valves so the heating will come on and just divert the water through the radiator in the cupboard and even possibly the rad/towel rail in the bathroom...is this kind of thing possible? what kind of valves would be available for this aplication, of course they would have to be electronic I would have thought and also would involve a bity of electrical trickery to pull it off but I think I can handle that side of things.

Any one done this kind of thing before?

Thanks for your help in advance! :D
 
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i'm also thinking the demand from the downstairs room stat would have to over ride anything in the airing cupboard system...i'm sure thats not a problem!
 
Piece of cake :rolleyes:

Install a flowshare valve and connect the towel rail to the hot water side of a programmer
 
:D :eek:

Can you tell me more! How are they plumbed in? Are they electrical valves?
 
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doitall said:
Piece of cake :rolleyes:

Install a flowshare valve and connect the towel rail to the hot water side of a programmer

And you could route port B of the valve to a hot water cylinder in the airing cupboard, and do away with the radiator ;)
 
meldrew's_mate said:
doitall said:
Piece of cake :rolleyes:

Install a flowshare valve and connect the towel rail to the hot water side of a programmer

And you could route port B of the valve to a hot water cylinder in the airing cupboard, and do away with the radiator ;)

what hot water cylinder, he now has a combi
 
Treat it as another heating zone.

Seperate zones are required by building regs now, so it's nothing difficult, just expense.
 
Just stick the flowshare valve in the heating flow and pretend the hot water port goes to the cylinder, you could even have a towel rail in the bathroom off the same circuit.

Wiring would require an programmer thats suitable for Hgt/Hw and control for the airing cupboard will be another room stat or a cylinder stat attached to the rad
 
be carefull, you may find you boiler has nuisence overheat problems, espeically if its not fully modulating. Bear in mind your potentially going to be chucking about 28kw of heat round a radiator the size of a tea tray. The boiler physically cant dump the amount of heat generatted round such a small rad and over heat problems are on the cards.


Id consider a small electric panal heater, i would be ceaer to run than your combi in summer and simpler,cheaper to fit.
 
HarrogateGas said:
be carefull, you may find you boiler has nuisence overheat problems, espeically if its not fully modulating. Bear in mind your potentially going to be chucking about 28kw of heat round a radiator the size of a tea tray. The boiler physically cant dump the amount of heat generatted round such a small rad and over heat problems are on the cards.


Id consider a small electric panal heater, i would be ceaer to run than your combi in summer and simpler,cheaper to fit.

Good point, this has crossed my mind...i was wondering! :eek:
 
lummocks said:
HarrogateGas said:
be carefull, you may find you boiler has nuisence overheat problems, espeically if its not fully modulating. Bear in mind your potentially going to be chucking about 28kw of heat round a radiator the size of a tea tray. The boiler physically cant dump the amount of heat generatted round such a small rad and over heat problems are on the cards.


Id consider a small electric panal heater, i would be ceaer to run than your combi in summer and simpler,cheaper to fit.

Good point, this has crossed my mind...i was wondering! :eek:

What had crossed your mind, provided you have an open circuit (which is controled by the stat) Then all you have is a standard as fitted to most boilers by-pass circuit. The boiler will modulate the same as always, and provided the pump is working and over-runs I can't see the problem.,

Consider what happen in the hot water mode. The boiler delivers full power to the hot taps with no circulation
 
rite I see, so there would be no reason why I can't just turn all the rads off in the rest of the house including the one with lsv's and rely on the trv on the rad in the airing cupboard?

The boiler is (if it matters) a little worcester greenstar 25 cdi if I remember rightly.

Actually really impressed with it...even showers are great especially after I fitted the smaller spray plate!
 
doitall said:
lummocks said:
HarrogateGas said:
be carefull, you may find you boiler has nuisence overheat problems, espeically if its not fully modulating. Bear in mind your potentially going to be chucking about 28kw of heat round a radiator the size of a tea tray. The boiler physically cant dump the amount of heat generatted round such a small rad and over heat problems are on the cards.


Id consider a small electric panal heater, i would be ceaer to run than your combi in summer and simpler,cheaper to fit.

Good point, this has crossed my mind...i was wondering! :eek:

What had crossed your mind, provided you have an open circuit (which is controled by the stat) Then all you have is a standard as fitted to most
boilers by-pass circuit. The boiler will modulate the same as always, and provided the pump is working and over-runs I can't see the problem.,

Consider what happen in the hot water mode. The boiler delivers full power to the hot taps with no circulation



But a rad small enough to fit in an airing cupboard is not going to lose the heat quick enough. Yes the boiler will modulate, but will it modulate quick enough before it over heats due to 25kw of heat being thrown into about 3 litres of water??


Yes when on hotwater large amounts of heat are generated, although there is some circulation (not none as you state) with the odd boiler exception. But at the same the heat is being transfered to the cold mains water passing through the boiler thus constantly cooling the boiler.



I wouldnt do it or even suggest it, its asking for trouble.
 

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