Ravenheat RSF 820/20T
- Thread starter Kutaiba
- Start date
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now now mr glazier you know it's the slow start foo foo valve that's jammed 
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Kutaiba, you see what happens if you don't tread carefully on this forum. Your problem is with the diverter valve. It may need a new diaphragm or complete replacement, but either way it's a difficult job on that boiler due to the poor access.
DOn't find these too bad but there is a gas pipe which has to be moved so its a corgi job.
Its possible to change the diaphragm alone with access from the left but it sounds like you need a whole diverter/stripdown.
Its possible to change the diaphragm alone with access from the left but it sounds like you need a whole diverter/stripdown.
I think that you are thinking of a different model Chris.
On this one the diverter "faces" the rear in the middle with the microswitches right at the back.
To replace the diaphragm the whole valve has to be removed and can involve much knuckle scraping.
Its a job I try to avoid and would allow 1½ hours. More if the switch pusher falls off as its VERY difficult to get it back on in situ.
Tony
On this one the diverter "faces" the rear in the middle with the microswitches right at the back.
To replace the diaphragm the whole valve has to be removed and can involve much knuckle scraping.
Its a job I try to avoid and would allow 1½ hours. More if the switch pusher falls off as its VERY difficult to get it back on in situ.
Tony
No, this is the model. Here's the beast, look, greeny which also goes to gv 12 pipe to be moved, but then you can see all the nuts you have to undo. Now contemplate the view inside a turbomax, or a cdi for example.
No pump, dhwhe , O rings, plastic bits, silly screws which shear off, in the way.
I'm not saying I'm quick but it wouldn't take me much less time to change the same sort of dv in some ariston, say. You need the right tools but we all probably have much the same.
For the diaphragm, it IS harder than an ariston euro..., but if you take the left side off the boiler (three screws and press stud iirc) you can get a flat right angled ratchet screwdriver to all the screws.
For the switches clip, and switch button pusher, it's just these - wouldn't be without a set with different ends:
(also eg use them for removing Ideal response water pressure switch - out in a twist)
I often seem to spend more time draining and filling than changing the parts - no drain cock, can't touch the iso valves, no filling loop until you find it's behind the washing machine whose hoses are connected under the sink and too short and its on cheap vinyl which rips and....
GG are you thinking of the ravers where the pressure vessel valve is thoughtfully under a plate down the back of the boiler?? Or NOT down the back any more, if I've been there. I can imagine they could be absolutely unreachable.
No pump, dhwhe , O rings, plastic bits, silly screws which shear off, in the way.
I'm not saying I'm quick but it wouldn't take me much less time to change the same sort of dv in some ariston, say. You need the right tools but we all probably have much the same.
For the diaphragm, it IS harder than an ariston euro..., but if you take the left side off the boiler (three screws and press stud iirc) you can get a flat right angled ratchet screwdriver to all the screws.
For the switches clip, and switch button pusher, it's just these - wouldn't be without a set with different ends:
(also eg use them for removing Ideal response water pressure switch - out in a twist)
I often seem to spend more time draining and filling than changing the parts - no drain cock, can't touch the iso valves, no filling loop until you find it's behind the washing machine whose hoses are connected under the sink and too short and its on cheap vinyl which rips and....
GG are you thinking of the ravers where the pressure vessel valve is thoughtfully under a plate down the back of the boiler?? Or NOT down the back any more, if I've been there. I can imagine they could be absolutely unreachable.
Use the safety to drain down - standard caleffi - easy to take of top and clean out. Be brave work on the boiler with the system full of water - just have the bungs handy. Normally have to take off the circuit board cover to get the valve out. Change aav and re-charge vessel as routine. Ditch white flow restrictor as they can decide to leak several days down the line.
Yeah vessel down the back - the schraider valves on the left. You can remove the plastic circular blanking plate and just about get the gauge/pump on there. This is providing there's plenty of side clearance.
Compacts/SD30s require a cold chisel since the valve points towards the wall and without a lump out there is no chance of getting the pump on. Wouldn't mind but if the walls rock hard render, no clearance on LHS etc.
Vessels are p.poor quality - only hold charge for 18 months. The vaillants vessels have dropped in quality as well. Rationalisation of parts and drop the quality.
Yeah vessel down the back - the schraider valves on the left. You can remove the plastic circular blanking plate and just about get the gauge/pump on there. This is providing there's plenty of side clearance.
Compacts/SD30s require a cold chisel since the valve points towards the wall and without a lump out there is no chance of getting the pump on. Wouldn't mind but if the walls rock hard render, no clearance on LHS etc.
Vessels are p.poor quality - only hold charge for 18 months. The vaillants vessels have dropped in quality as well. Rationalisation of parts and drop the quality.
Exactly - easy to get at.
Ooo err, if it starts gluggin out while you have the DV out and you're over carpet...
Bungs? The conical ones wouldna go in, Jim..?
Err, just a disc sitting in the pipe somwhere innit? With a usually-perished O ring you 're better off without? Or do you mean something different?
No the BES bungs.
Normally never have any problems working on boilers with the system full of water providing the flow and return rise a bit going into the boiler. When they drop down from the ceiling no option but to isolate/drain down.
It can give you too much confidence, occasionally when you've got the boiler in bits and the heat exchanger on the floor you glance up to notice the staircase in the hall. Sudden panic as you think about all that water upstairs.
The restrictor is on the inlet on the diverter - its not fitted with washers from the factory and can leak when re-fitted. With our low pressures not really a problem.
Geoff
Normally never have any problems working on boilers with the system full of water providing the flow and return rise a bit going into the boiler. When they drop down from the ceiling no option but to isolate/drain down.
It can give you too much confidence, occasionally when you've got the boiler in bits and the heat exchanger on the floor you glance up to notice the staircase in the hall. Sudden panic as you think about all that water upstairs.
The restrictor is on the inlet on the diverter - its not fitted with washers from the factory and can leak when re-fitted. With our low pressures not really a problem.
Geoff
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