Worcester 24i combi boiler problems !!

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Please help I really don't like calling out engineer who charge the backside of you.

I have a Worcester 24i combi boiler that has been working perfectly for 8 years now, was working fine at 1pm today and packed in around 6pm.

I'll break it down a bit more...

Cold water - all fine runs at normal pressure

Hot water - none at all, cold water comes out at normal pressure

Central Heating - non at all, pump works as it is pumping cold water around radiators.


Normally when you run hot tap or put boiler onto constant you here a click or 2 and then the boiler lights. There is no click on boiler not being lit.

I've looked at the PCB and it seems fine, gave the relay switchs a tap incase they were stuck and checked the fuses and it all seems fine.

I've heard these boilers have either flow switch or pressure switch on the hot water pipe that detects flowing water and signals the boiler to lite. Could it be this ?

I have a plumber and a gas engineer in family but neither knows boilers, any work to be carried out i'll ask them to do.

Thanks in advance.
 
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and what does the pressure gauge say,less than 1/2 bar and it will not fire.
 
oh sorry, it was on 3/4 bar, default on mine is 1 bar so i refilled it to 1.5bar and still same problem.
(to refill my boiler I have a blue tap under boiler, i'm guessing as it's a combi it only needs cold inlet)

I've had it drop below 1bar before and it wouldn't lite but you could still hear the relay switch clicking as if it was trying to lite, refilling system fixed issue, at present there is no click.

I don't really want to touch anything unless I know what it is.
 
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yes try the easy things first.

have you read makers instructions.

1.has over heat tripped out.
2.these boilers suffer from water leaking from auto air vent and dripping into air pressure switch.

there are a few problems with these basic combis.
 
scatmanjohn said:
over heat stat popped out maybe


didn't think of that...

checked it and it's in the down position, is it possible to overheat and switch off with the switch stuck in position ?

Can I force the cut off switch to activate to see it if pops up ?


another note, just checked the manual and it has a flow switch. How can I test the flow switch ?
 
Its not the O/H stat then.

The flow switch is for the hot water operation, so its not that if the heating is kaput as well.

Hard to tell without being in front of it, so i won't start guessing.
 
doesn't the pipe with the flow switch on provide water for taps and C/H ?

The diagram in my book shows ..

domestic cold water supply ---> Flow Switch----> Through Heat exchanger---> domestic hot water out

To me that means water is detected as flowing through flow switch, it send signal to pcb which should then signal ignition switch and gas valve ?


When I turn on C/H there is no ignition sound, would ignition only spark if gas detected or does it spark whenever ?
as previous when boiler hasn't lit you can hear switch sparking.
 
Is the fan running and if it is the APS (air pressure switch) needs to activate before the ignition sequence will start. If the fan is going give the APS a tap with an insulated screw driver, just a tap don't belt it. Boiler will probably fire, had a few of these recently.
 
Surely it's just locked out. Are there any flashing lights?
 
glovered wrote:

doesn't the pipe with the flow switch on provide water for taps and C/H ?

No



The diagram in my book shows ..

domestic cold water supply ---> Flow Switch----> Through Heat exchanger---> domestic hot water out

To me that means water is detected as flowing through flow switch, it send signal to pcb which should then signal ignition switch and gas valve ?

The diagram in your book is correct.
Your interpretation of the diagram isn't
 
"""Please help I really don't like calling out engineer who charge the backside of you."""

I am disapointed that you are worried about calling out a boiler engineer. They should be able to come and do a repair at a reasonable price.

How would you feel about a solicitor who's billing system starts at about £300 or an accountant who starts at £200 or a dentist who starts at about £30 but thats at his place and goes radiply up to several hunderd if you need a crown or root canal treatment!

Tony
 
hmm, i'm quite concerned that you think some engineers prices are justified !

It seems some companies actually use emergencies to make money than help out someone like myself.



Anyway, thanks for your help, looks like i'm going to have to call out someone and get myself further in debt.
 
We charge £84 as a fixed price diagnostic fee. Obviously spare parts are extra and if its a complicated wet part then there will be an extra cost to fit.

More repairs therefore are in the region of £84-£136 unless a major part like a pcb is involved but then its still less than £200.

Most car repairs come in at a similar cost or higher.

The difference is that you take yourself to your solicitor or dentist and your car to the garage whereas we come to your home and do not charge any more for travelling time.

I dont think these charges are unreasonable.

Tony
 
It seems some companies actually use emergencies to make money than help out someone like myself.

Wake up! Companies exist to make money, not to help people.
It's a free market and cometition is rife.
 

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