Painting a window frame

mo2

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I have a window frame with no glass in it, i thought this might be a godd time to repaint it, the problem/question is - When I paint it, does it matter if I get paint on the bare wood where the glass goes?

also do I have to do anything to that bare wood before I put the new glass in

thanks
mo2
 
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It woud be a good idea to treat any knots with knotting and prime the frame before putting the glass in,as far as I know you should undercoat/gloss awindow after the glass has been put in as this creates a seal between the glass and putty/beads
 
As splinter says, treat any knots with knotting solution, and then use a good paint system like Dulux Weathershield. This would entail treating any bare timber with wood preservative, then a coat of primer (the grey stuff - aluminium oxide primer) including the rebate for the glass, then pop the glass in and once the putty, or, beads and glazing silicone's dry, 2 x coats of gloss. Overlap the gloss on to the glass by 1-2mm. As Splinter says, this protects the beads or putty from any moisture ingress.
 
If you use a real linseed oil paint then you wont need to soak the wood with poison. It won't rot as the paint is so vapour permeable that the wood will be able to dry out, preventing moulds from thriving. The paint lasts much much longer than most paints so Dulux don't sell it. No one buys more a couple of years later when the first lot flakes off.

Get advice from Holkham Paints
 
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6 to 8 years plus for Dulux Weathershield, depending on the window's aspect in relation to weather conditions, and that's not just off of the back of the tin, that's in my experience.

Linseed oil paints have their place in the market too, and by all accounts are great products. I'm sure mo2 is capable of making an informed choice.

For that matter, mo2 merely wanted to know whether he should paint the rebate or not...
 
Well I don't paint the rebate except with linseed oil.

Alback, the Swedish manufacturer of the linseed paint that Holkhams sell, recommend that after 7 years a coat of linseed oil is applied and after a further 7 years a single coat of paint is applied. This 14 year mainenance cycly is continued indefinately. The paint never flakes off but slowly erodes. Adding a coat every 14 years maintains a constant thickness of the paint layer.

Remember, the most expensive paint is cheap paint.
 
biffvernon,
Do you use linseed oil putty from Holkham Paints as well ;)
 
Doubtless of excellent quality, but putty is cheap and heavy so I get it from nearest builders merchant rather than mail order.
 
Still it would be easy for the postman to get through the letterbox
 
so looks like I'll just paint it, no worries - forgot to mention that it's internal(sorry) and i will be using poison to paint it

thanks!

ps - im planning on using glass beads instead of putty becuase it will look nicer inside
 
Putty wont stick to bare timber, it dries out and cracks...
 
Putty wont stick to bare timber, it dries out and cracks...

What else is there to stick it to lol? :(

Well, I spent a long time on my window in early Feb when it badly needed painting. I'm not entirely happy though as the paint isn't very hard wearing even though it's Dulux Gloss. Problem is, it was during my early days of DIY, so I'm guessing that I probably didn't wipe down the surface. There was a lot of mould on the window at the time. However, I wish I had have used 'Dulux Jasmin White Satinwood' instead of stark white Dulux gloss. Spent ages on it and now looks like it could do with painting again.

Overlap the gloss on to the glass by 1-2mm. As Splinter says, this protects the beads or putty from any moisture ingress.

I didn't do this because I don't think paint on a pane of glass looks that tidy lol. Oh did I forget to mention I used linseed oil putty that was 2 years old? I wondered the other day why it was still moist :(. lol I sound like a right cowboy don't I? :(
 
Tozzy said:
Putty wont stick to bare timber, it dries out and cracks...

What else is there to stick it to lol? :(
:(

when putty is applied to BARE timber the linseed oil will just soak into the wood and putty will dry out too quickly and crack letting in moisture. Need to prime the rebate and let it dry before putty.. waterbased primers are fine if your in hurry but prefer oil based myself..

When I paint exterior windows.. I abrade, wash with ammonia, check and replace/repair any loose putty, undercoat and one coat of gloss if Im using dulux weathershield.. if ordinary gloss then twoooo coats of gloss.. = 6years. BUT!!!!!! only if the window was good in the first place.. ie no rot etc....
good luck.. ;)
 

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