BAXI 133HE

Water Systems said:
corgiman said:
Everyone just ignore him and he may just go away. :LOL:

I doubt he will go away.

YAY

is that a promise (fingers crossed)

this site is a great resource for both DIY'ers and Professionals alike, its just bitter people like you that try and ruin it for all

Yeah yeah your a big man and you are always right, when God retires I am sure that the cherubim and serabim will be on your blower to get you to take up the reigns

Well done You
 
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everyone at sometime will get something wrong. water systems consistantly gets decency and politeness wrong. why , if your so knowledgeable dont you air your experience and help others politely rather than disrespect and insult people who work hard and are always willing to listen and learn.sorry if it upsets you , but , even you dont know everything.
 
fitz1 said:
everyone at sometime will get something wrong. water systems consistantly gets decency and politeness wrong. why , if your so knowledgeable dont you air your experience and help others politely rather than disrespect and insult people who work hard and are always willing to listen and learn.sorry if it upsets you , but , even you dont know everything.

WOW fitz thats blasphemy he knows all ;)

I am kidding

well said that man
 
corgiman said:
Water Systems said:
corgiman said:
Everyone just ignore him and he may just go away. :LOL:
I doubt he will go away.
YAY

Is that a promise (fingers crossed)

this site is a great resource for both DIY'ers and Professionals alike, its just bitter people like you that try and ruin it for all

Well done You

He's a VERY naughty boy
 
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Quote:

I do stand by my other comment - manual states clearly that the switch operates at only 4.5 l/hour, which strikes me as a very, very small flow through (say) 6 TRVs in parallel.



What the hell are you on about. That is the minimum the heat exchanger can take - which is obvious. Very small flow? What the hell are you on about? That is what it is supposed to do.

You can't have it both ways.
If the pump is running (ie. heating is timed-on and assuming no room-stat) and any of the TRVs are even slightly open, then the flow rate will very likely exceed 4.5 l/hour and the boiler will fire.

The point of an interlock (however provided) is to STOP the boiler from firing if there is no need for heat.

So you tell me: is the flow switch effective at stopping the boiler from firing? or does it operate at 4.5 l/hour and fire the boiler, in which case it clearly is NOT effective.

If you don't actually KNOW the answer, FOAD and leave space for Gaz (who does actually work on this model) answer the question. (And if you are unaware of what FOAD means, spend some time finding out and give us all a break.)
 
So assuming the flowswitch turns off the boiler when it detects low or zero flow how long is the interval before the pump starts running again to allow detection of any TRV's that may have opened up?

I have tenants who would like a small bedroom radiator running to keep the room at high temperature for the baby.

With a conventional room stat coupled with a rad and 2 lockshields this is a problem since the stat is normally located in a hall or living room (in a flat).

Accurate flowsensors could be the way to go.
 
fitz1 said:
everyone at sometime will get something wrong. water systems consistantly gets decency and politeness wrong. why ,

If you read back on the thread I only respond to those who start it. I notice you never mentioned the pillock.

And some people here should not post as they know sweet FA.
 
corgiman said:
Water Systems said:
croydoncorgi said:
You're right.
I stand corrected- I wasthinking of an earlier type.

No. You just made things up thinking you were clever - but you are far from it.

Oh come on, The man had the good grace to apologies for his understandable mistake and you give him abuse

well I hope you are getting off on it, for the rest of us this is just pathetic

Nice croyden I admire you for apologizing in such a polite manner, I just wish water had the common decency to accept it

He never apologised to me.
 
raden said:
corgiman said:
Water Systems said:
corgiman said:
Everyone just ignore him and he may just go away. :LOL:
I doubt he will go away.
YAY

Is that a promise (fingers crossed)

this site is a great resource for both DIY'ers and Professionals alike, its just bitter people like you that try and ruin it for all

Well done You

He's a VERY naughty boy

Mr Raden, there are very naughty boys on here. They certainly were not chastised when young.
 
Gasguru said:
So assuming the flowswitch turns off the boiler when it detects low or zero flow how long is the interval before the pump starts running again to allow detection of any TRV's that may have opened up?

I have tenants who would like a small bedroom radiator running to keep the room at high temperature for the baby.

With a conventional room stat coupled with a rad and 2 lockshields this is a problem since the stat is normally located in a hall or living room (in a flat).

Accurate flowsensors could be the way to go.

Yep. You can do it with any system using a flow switch and a Grundfos Alpha auto speed pump. Wilo make one called the smart pump or whatever - £44 in Screwfix.

Get the flow switch matched to the minimum boiler flow rate. The flow switch switches the buner only.
 
croydoncorgi said:
Quote:

I do stand by my other comment - manual states clearly that the switch operates at only 4.5 l/hour, which strikes me as a very, very small flow through (say) 6 TRVs in parallel.

What the hell are you on about. That is the minimum the heat exchanger can take - which is obvious. Very small flow? What the hell are you on about? That is what it is supposed to do.

You can't have it both ways.
If the pump is running (ie. heating is timed-on and assuming no room-stat) and any of the TRVs are even slightly open, then the flow rate will very likely exceed 4.5 l/hour and the boiler will fire.

Yep. as it should as a rad is calling for heat.

The point of an interlock (however provided) is to STOP the boiler from firing if there is no need for heat.

Yep. And in your scenario there was a demand for heat.

So you tell me: is the flow switch effective at stopping the boiler from firing? or does it operate at 4.5 l/hour and fire the boiler, in which case it clearly is NOT effective.

Less than 4.5 litres the flow switch cuts out the burner and pump. I believe the pump activates periodically and if above 4.5 litres the burner fires, if not above 4.5 then the burner stays off and the pump switches off. Is that so difficult for you to understand? If so then get a job on the milk.
 
You're still assuming that TRVs are reliable on/off devices. They ain't. Depending on ambient temperature, age, condition, original quality, ..., they may or may not close completely (or alternatively, jam shut!). And 4.5 l/hour is a very small flow.
 
yeah, but you gotta remember that the MI's will be going by the book, assuming that the trv's are good quality and shutting down. the boilers are designed to specific specifications, and should be coupled to deices that 'do their job' ie, a trv is supposed to shut down completly'...

back on topic, the 133 is a good boiler, yeah their have been one or two teething problems, but cause of the quick response by the manufacturers these have now been sorted.

they also have the ability to use fault diagnosis programmes to detect all previous blocking error's/lockouts
 
croydoncorgi said:
You're still assuming that TRVs are reliable on/off devices.

They are not on-off devices, they are variable. This basic stuff. You are clearly not a heating man, stick to drains.

They ain't. Depending on ambient temperature, age, condition, original quality, ..., they may or may not close completely (or alternatively, jam shut!). And 4.5 l/hour is a very small flow.

4.5 l/hr is the minimum flow the heat exchanger needs. Understand?

The TRVs slowly close up in the house as the house reaches temperature. Understand?

When the flow rate into the boioer is below 4.5 the boioer switches out the burner and pump. Understand?

When, if say one TRV opens up as the room has cooled, the flow gets above 4.5 and the boiler brings in the pump and burner. Understand?

If the TRV closes up again, the flow switch switches out the burner and pump. Understand?

All basic simple stuff. Do you go into people's houses doing things on boilers?

.
 
jasonvaughan said:
back on topic, the 133 is a good boiler, yeah their have been one or two teething problems, but cause of the quick response by the manufacturers these have now been sorted.

they also have the ability to use fault diagnosis programmes to detect all previous blocking error's/lockouts

The only bad point about the boiler is that it has a bottom mounted burner. The design appears half-cocked. A one piece heat-exchanger with a pre-mix top mounted burner is the best setup for a condensing boiler.

Why they went for thast arrangement I don't know.
 

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