1" pipework and suitable couplers

watertight · 4 Sep 2006

Guys,

Was working at a house the other day where a couple of sections of 1" pipework had to be removed (for underpinning purposes). These have had to be put back. I used 28mm compression fittings to reattach the pipework together. Had a few issues getting the nuts and olives on the pipework but managed. Tightened the fittings but when I refilled I had several leaks (quite fast drips). I didn't overtighten and further tightening reduced the leaks but did not stop them.

I was unable to use soldered fittings as the pipework was wet, sludgy and furthermore needed a 1" to 1" solution not an 1" to 28mm fix.

I'd not encountered a problem with using 28mm fittings before and given how tight the nuts and olives were on the pipe I was suprised to see they leaked so bad.

Any advice on how to rectify this would be appreciated, thought of PTFEing them but not sure that this is the best solution. Any advice on the best way forward or most suitable fittings would be appreciated.

Mark

bster · 4 Sep 2006

if you could solder them you could order 1" couplers from Plumbs etc, or just use 1"/28mm adapter - 28mm pipe - 28mm\1" adapter - 1"pipe

watertight · 4 Sep 2006

Thanks for the speedy reply.

Soldering would obviously be the best solution but getting the pipework dry enough would prove impossible, even the age old bread trick wouldn't work.

What's the score on 28mm plastic fittings? I suspect that that'll be a no no as well. Can see I've got a little bit of a problem a head of me.

Mark

bab · 4 Sep 2006

I would'nt recomend reducing the diameter of the pipe but i would off wrapped ptfe around the compresion rings before or after tighting. Id take ya wellies back off the nuts 'wrap the rings & give um some real torque. 28 rings take a lot to bite in especially on old 1" pipe. 1" is larger than 28mm so aslong as u got em on they seal,

doitall · 4 Sep 2006

Had you used Jointing compound they wouldn't have leaked.

Run the nuts back and apply the compound around the olive and do the nuts back up.

Jet Blue, Fernox, etc will do, get for potable water if the pipes are Hot and cold domestic water.

bster · 4 Sep 2006

sorry i was meant to put 28mm and not 22mm

watertight · 4 Sep 2006

Cheers Guys,

Is jointing compound to be used over PTFE or vise versa?

It's not potable but I think I have some Fernox stuff in the back of my van. Obviously got plenty of PTFE as well!

Any ideas on how I can get the nuts back far enough from the olives? The nuts don't really want to shift from their position, even with pressure from a paid of waterpumps!

Once again, cheers guys,

Mark

bster · 4 Sep 2006

I've been told some compounds will eat the ptfe, so one or the other, i'd go for PTFE.

bab · 4 Sep 2006

I feel ptfe is gona be easier if u dont want to drain down again.

htgeng · 4 Sep 2006

Im afraid that soldering is your only way to ensure it is leakproof - thats how pro's would do it.

Do as Bster suggests with some 28mm and endfeed adaptors. Get all the water out using an aquavac. Do it once properly and you won't have to worry about it again....

doitall · 4 Sep 2006

Jointing compound and NO ptfe, it will not leak, unless the pipe is damaged.

Softus · 5 Sep 2006

htgeng said:
Im afraid that soldering is your only way to ensure it is leakproof - thats how pro's would do it.

Utter rubbish, on both counts.

Do as Bster suggests with some 28mm and endfeed adaptors.

Great suggestion - the hardest to use of all soldered fittings.

doitall said:
Jointing compound and NO ptfe, it will not leak, unless the pipe is damaged.

Nah - use PTFE and no jointing compound - it will not leak, and the PTFE won't wash away over time.

doitall · 5 Sep 2006

Softus said:
Nah - use PTFE and no jointing compound - it will not leak, and the PTFE won't wash away over time.

Come on softus the compound is em water proof.

I have never used ptfe for such a job in 47 years.

Ok so you guys don't like to get your fingers dirty

Softus · 5 Sep 2006

doitall said:
Softus said:

Nah - use PTFE and no jointing compound - it will not leak, and the PTFE won't wash away over time.

Click to expand...

Come on softus the compound is em water proof.

I said that it can get washed away, not that it would absorb water.

I have never used ptfe for such a job in 47 years.

That would probably also apply to all the people whose rad valve joints I have to go and remake.

Ok so you guys don't like to get your fingers dirty

No - I just don't like to get my fingers dirty with an outdated material like jointing compound.

doitall · 5 Sep 2006

Softus said:
I said that it can get washed away, not that it would absorb water.

How can it wash away ? its trapped under a nut.

That would probably also apply to all the people whose rad valve joints I have to go and remake.

You use ptfe based products or hemp for male threads, and I suspect its the crap training and lack of ability thats the problem.
Make them do the repairs at their own cost

No - I just don't like to get my fingers dirty with an outdated material like jointing compound.

So its a personal choice then, and not a question of one being better than the other.

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1" pipework and suitable couplers

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