Zanussi FJS1425W bearings

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I have a 4 yr old Zanussi FJS1425W. It became noisy and there was play on the inner drum. Diagnosis - shot bearings.
Took the whole drum assembly out of the machine, having taken the water connections of the various points. Make sure you squeeze the front of the white pins which hold the shock absorber onto the drum, whilst pulling from behind. They slide out intact. Removed the belt and the motor - undo the bolts and slide it forward off the mounting lugs. Removed the drive wheel at the back, removed the 17 bolts from the two halves of the drum and then examined the rear bearing. Two balls completely vanished, race shot. Drifted the spider shaft out of the bearings and removed the spider from the inner drum. (Drifted = large hammer + copper shaft + lots of sweat). Seal had worn and allowed water leakage onto bearings. They had gradually corroded and caused the problems. Play on drum was not enough to allow damage to the outer drum from the inner drum. Spider shaft completely eaten away and needed to be binned!
£30 for new bearings, £50 for a new spider and shaft.
Reassemble the bearings, making sure the mounting points are clean and rust free. Cover the shaft between bearings with grease (and the new seal too).Use some silicon grease on the seal between the two halves and carefully reassemble.
17 bolts back on the drum, replace drum into machine. Connect hoses and locate all springs etc.

Couple of hours work. £80 and some sweat. No need for new 1/2 drum, heater etc as some poster suggest. Cheaper than £200+ and cheaper than buying new machine.

Maybe someone will find the instructions useful. I would have done.

If you have/can work on a car knowledgably, you can change the bearings. :) You need Allen keys, socket set, hammer, grease and some cable ties. Otherwise, get a deep wallet.... :cry:
 
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Companies use rear half as it's a 45 minute job, 1 hour tops.
Glad you got it done and saved yourself some money though.
 
Hello Rotweiller,

I too have a bearings problem (I think) and have been trying to get advice to do it myself. Trouble is, everybody keeps telling me to get a professional to do it but the prof I asked just advised me to get a new machine as it would not be economical to repair. I am really not prepared to do that YET so I have nothing to lose except time if I have a go and fail.

Thank you for putting your experience on this site, it has helped me enormously and given me the confidence to try myself. I, too am going to remove the drum from the cabinet, it's the only way that I personally could do this job with the limited knowledge I have. My main problem at the moment is getting the drum away from the inside of the front half of the cabinet. There must be some fixing inside the door that is holding the bellow on, that is preventing separation? What holds the bellow collar on the machine and the drum at the same time?

I was advised not to remove the bellow/collar. Any chance you could recall what you did so you could advise me?

Thanks
 
Open the door and look at the bottom of the door seal. You'll see the plastic clip. Undo it and unhook the door seal
 
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Thank you SO much, I will try that tomorrow as it's not at my house. I'll let you know how I get on.
regards
 
Open the door and look at the bottom of the door seal. You'll see the plastic clip. Undo it and unhook the door seal

Success, thanks, it worked.

Now I have taken the drum out, separated the outer drum from inner drum, removed the spider shaft, (needs replacing very corroded) but I can't remove the old bearings. Individual bearings are falling out. I could try all day but if you know the right way to do this I would be very grateful if you could let me know. Thanks
 
Just to update you sleepyhead, I removed one set of bearings but the other one was so seized up inside the outer drum, very corroded, that it took part of the drum away with it. There were a lot of foreign bodies in places where they shouldn't have been. My tenant must have continued to use it while it was begging for repair and it became overheated at the centre of the outer drum. Maybe I was a bit heavy handed trying to remove the broken bearings but the upshot is that a new outer drum, spider shaft, bearings and seals would have been needed to put this little blighter back to work. I ended up buying a 'used' one on ebay, described as perfect, but which I am afraid is not without its' own problems.

Anyway, I just wanted to thank you on this wonderful site for all the knowledge, advice and help there is here. I have learned a lot from this exercise, so to anyone else attempting to repair their own machine all I can say is if I - a little 5'2" old lady - can do it, I am sure anyone can, go for it!

I took photos all the way but would not have a clue how to post them on here. It was quite interesting to see how the inner drum must have been scuffing the inside of the outer drum and melted it somewhat.
 
Thanks for letting us know how you got on. Pity that there was so much damage to your machine. However, your experience explains why we go with a back tub half and also an inner drum with spider just in case.

:D
 
Sorry know its an old thread. But going to try before starting a new one. Does any one know the direction the drum seal should be inserted. Usually the garter spring is placed on the side of the fluid to be sealed. But whenever I was taking the seal out it was facing the bearings. Any one help?
 
The bearing seal should be fitted with the hollow side facing the bearing and pack it with grease.
 
Cheers.
Thats that the way it came out.
Know spring in the seal is meant to face the fluid they are sealing so sealing the grease then and not the water.
 

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