DIYnot
Local | Network
   DIYnot > Forums
Local | Network
DIYnot Network Local DIYnot Network Local  
  Forum IndexForum Index     RulesRules    HelpHelp     Join FREERegister Free     BookmarksBookmarks     Watched TopicsWatched Topics     SearchSearch     LoginLogin 

Add a Socket in Sink Cupboard.

This topic originated from the How to page called Installing a power socket
Click here to return to the page called Installing a power socket.

 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    DIYnot.com Forum Index > Electrics UK
  View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
mrwmrwmrw

from United Kingdom

Joined: 27 Sep 2006
Posts: 3
Location: Norfolk,
United Kingdom
Thanked: 0 times

PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 1:50 pm    Post Subject:
Add a Socket in Sink Cupboard.
Reply with quote Thanks

I am planning my kitchen with an integrated Dishwasher and Washing Machine either side of my sink cupboard.
Should I add a socket in the sink cupboard with a cutout (easy access but not sure if this is allowed) or behind each of the appliances.

Is there a proper way to do this?

Thanks.
Back to top
 Alert Moderators

If you don't want to see this advert, click here to login or if you are new click here to join free.
New2Game

from United Kingdom

Joined: 10 Jul 2006
Posts: 340
Location: Cleveland,
United Kingdom
Thanked: 0 times

PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 1:57 pm    Post Subject:
Reply with quote Thanks

Remember Part P! You'll need to have installed switched fused spurs, this allows for the appliances to be isolated in the events of a fault without having to pull the kitchen apart to turn a plug off
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
mrwmrwmrw

from United Kingdom

Joined: 27 Sep 2006
Posts: 3
Location: Norfolk,
United Kingdom
Thanked: 0 times

PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 2:18 pm    Post Subject:
Like this?
Reply with quote Thanks

Ok, so if I put a switched fused spur for each behind the sink cupboard with a cutout for access and connected these to 13A plug sockets behind the appliances?

Does that sound right for Part P?
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
New2Game

from United Kingdom

Joined: 10 Jul 2006
Posts: 340
Location: Cleveland,
United Kingdom
Thanked: 0 times

PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 2:24 pm    Post Subject:
Reply with quote Thanks

Part P means its notifable work and only a competant person should be doing it. The switched fused spurs would be located above the work surfaces and the lead from the appliance would go to that. theres no plug, the fuse is actually in the spur, so no need for one
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
mrwmrwmrw

from United Kingdom

Joined: 27 Sep 2006
Posts: 3
Location: Norfolk,
United Kingdom
Thanked: 0 times

PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 2:31 pm    Post Subject:
Reply with quote Thanks

Doesn't that mean plastering in the lead from the appliance? I dont want any visible cables.
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
New2Game

from United Kingdom

Joined: 10 Jul 2006
Posts: 340
Location: Cleveland,
United Kingdom
Thanked: 0 times

PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 2:33 pm    Post Subject:
Reply with quote Thanks

yeah will need plastering in behind some capping or tile over them
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
gingervit

from United Kingdom

Joined: 04 May 2006
Posts: 14
Location: Birmingham,
United Kingdom
Thanked: 0 times

PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 4:41 pm    Post Subject:
Reply with quote Thanks

Hmmm, has been done by feeding a single non switched socket from a fused spur above the work surface. Isolation above and removable below.
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
SparkyMarky

from United Kingdom

Joined: 04 May 2006
Posts: 134
Location: United Kingdom
Thanked: 0 times

PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 5:08 pm    Post Subject:
Reply with quote Thanks

New2Game wrote:
The switched fused spurs would be located above the work surfaces and the lead from the appliance would go to that. theres no plug, the fuse is actually in the spur, so no need for one


I disagree. The last thing I'd advise anyone to do is cut the plug off a new appliance and connect it into a fused spur before buryng the flex behind tiling or plaster. What happens if it goes wrong and the appliance needs to be returned after you've butchered the cable? There's also a good chance that the cable wouldn't be long enough to allow the appliance to be pulled out from under the worktops for maintenance if you do this, and I'd have thought it pretty bad practise to be burying flex in walls anyway.

If you want to go down this road, it's generally considered good practise to fit a double pole switch above the worktop feeding a unswitched socket below the worktop where you can plug the appliance in. Alternatively, although it may not be best practise there's nothing wrong (by the regs) in installing a normal switched socket below the worktop, either behind the appliance or in an adjacent cupboard (but mounted on the building fabric).
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
ban-all-sheds

from United Kingdom

Joined: 27 Aug 2003
Posts: 21984
Location: London,
United Kingdom
Thanked: 78 times

PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 5:27 pm    Post Subject:
Reply with quote Thanks

Or if you don't mind cutting the plug off, you can replace it with an unfused one, e.g. 15A BS546 or Schuko, and supply the socket from a switched FCU above the worktop, or if you have a lot of appliances together, from a grid of switch and fuse modules.

__________________
I mustn't warn people that the "experts" on the plumbing forum can't be trusted to tell the truth.
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
Steve

from United Kingdom

Joined: 15 Apr 2005
Posts: 12845
Location: Yorkshire,
United Kingdom
Thanked: 21 times

PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 7:14 pm    Post Subject:
Reply with quote Thanks

I didnt think schucko plugs were widely available in this country. Do they meet British Standards?
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
securespark

from United Kingdom

Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 16482
Location: Cheshire,
United Kingdom
Thanked: 14 times

PostPosted: Thu Sep 28, 2006 12:19 am    Post Subject:
Reply with quote Thanks

ban-all-sheds wrote:
Or if you don't mind cutting the plug off, you can replace it with an unfused one, e.g. 15A BS546 or Schuko, and supply the socket from a switched FCU above the worktop, or if you have a lot of appliances together, from a grid of switch and fuse modules.


That's my preferred method.

__________________
As George Michael once said, "..if you're gonna do it, do it right, right?"
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
Display posts from previous:   
  View previous topic :: View next topic  
Post new topic   Reply to topic    DIYnot.com Forum Index > Electrics UK All times are GMT
Page 1 of 1

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
Similar Topics   Replies   Views   Posted 
Socket above sink 5 260 Tue Jan 29, 2008 9:00 pm
Moving a Socket further from sink 2 360 Mon Apr 07, 2008 7:21 pm
I can reach a socket with my hand in the kitchen sink 40 2360 Thu Feb 09, 2006 8:24 pm
socket spur safe distance from kitchen sink 7 820 Sat Mar 22, 2008 10:55 pm
Socket under Kitchen Sink? 15 2720 Thu Nov 11, 2004 10:58 pm



DIYnot
Find an Expert | Find a Supplier | Search DIYnot.com
My DIYnot | Advertising | Newsletter
DIYnot.com | How to... | @home | Wiki | Forum
By using this site you agree to our Terms of Service / Disclaimer.
Please read our Privacy Policy.