Add a Socket in Sink Cupboard.

mrwmrwmrw · 27 Sep 2006

I am planning my kitchen with an integrated Dishwasher and Washing Machine either side of my sink cupboard.
Should I add a socket in the sink cupboard with a cutout (easy access but not sure if this is allowed) or behind each of the appliances.

Is there a proper way to do this?

Thanks.

New2Game · 27 Sep 2006

Remember Part P! You'll need to have installed switched fused spurs, this allows for the appliances to be isolated in the events of a fault without having to pull the kitchen apart to turn a plug off

mrwmrwmrw · 27 Sep 2006

Ok, so if I put a switched fused spur for each behind the sink cupboard with a cutout for access and connected these to 13A plug sockets behind the appliances?

Does that sound right for Part P?

New2Game · 27 Sep 2006

Part P means its notifable work and only a competant person should be doing it. The switched fused spurs would be located above the work surfaces and the lead from the appliance would go to that. theres no plug, the fuse is actually in the spur, so no need for one

mrwmrwmrw · 27 Sep 2006

Doesn't that mean plastering in the lead from the appliance? I dont want any visible cables.

New2Game · 27 Sep 2006

yeah will need plastering in behind some capping or tile over them

gingervit · 27 Sep 2006

Hmmm, has been done by feeding a single non switched socket from a fused spur above the work surface. Isolation above and removable below.

SparkyMarky · 27 Sep 2006

New2Game said:
The switched fused spurs would be located above the work surfaces and the lead from the appliance would go to that. theres no plug, the fuse is actually in the spur, so no need for one

I disagree. The last thing I'd advise anyone to do is cut the plug off a new appliance and connect it into a fused spur before buryng the flex behind tiling or plaster. What happens if it goes wrong and the appliance needs to be returned after you've butchered the cable? There's also a good chance that the cable wouldn't be long enough to allow the appliance to be pulled out from under the worktops for maintenance if you do this, and I'd have thought it pretty bad practise to be burying flex in walls anyway.

If you want to go down this road, it's generally considered good practise to fit a double pole switch above the worktop feeding a unswitched socket below the worktop where you can plug the appliance in. Alternatively, although it may not be best practise there's nothing wrong (by the regs) in installing a normal switched socket below the worktop, either behind the appliance or in an adjacent cupboard (but mounted on the building fabric).

ban-all-sheds · 27 Sep 2006

Or if you don't mind cutting the plug off, you can replace it with an unfused one, e.g. 15A BS546 or Schuko, and supply the socket from a switched FCU above the worktop, or if you have a lot of appliances together, from a grid of switch and fuse modules.

Steve · 27 Sep 2006

I didnt think schucko plugs were widely available in this country. Do they meet British Standards?

securespark · 28 Sep 2006

ban-all-sheds said:
Or if you don't mind cutting the plug off, you can replace it with an unfused one, e.g. 15A BS546 or Schuko, and supply the socket from a switched FCU above the worktop, or if you have a lot of appliances together, from a grid of switch and fuse modules.

That's my preferred method.

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Add a Socket in Sink Cupboard.

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