replacing a danfos hs3

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Have a danfos hs3 3-way motorised valve. Have been limping through with it for the last few months because it has not been opening to the c/h fully, the internals of the motorised head have worn and so has the sppindle which turns the valve. My question is: when I get a replacement valve is it a case of isolating either side of the pump, do I need to drain down the whole system, will the wiring match up to the existing terminals, or is it easier to get a profesional in to do the job?

Thanks.
 
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As a diyer yes drain it ,far easier either use a straight danfoss replacement which has 4 wires or if you use another manufacturer which has 5 wires extra one being an earth.
 
WHat would you do as a non-diyer namsag? I have swapped the guts of these for the new ones in situ, but it is fiddly. Do you find bungs work for that ?
 
the bungs should work ok if they go in well give it a try. bung it and drain water from a drain cock somewhere and see if it comes to a stop that will be a good sign that your system will bung ok
 
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I've never tried them for a 3 port - afraid that as there are 3 open ends, the water could go round a loop and into my face... :eek:
 
ChrisR said:
I've never tried them for a 3 port - afraid that as there are 3 open ends, the water could go round a loop and into my face... :eek:

It won't chris, make your life easier mate get the bungs out....if it starts glugging get yourself ready for a quick snatch.
 
Plug feed and vent as usual and pull a vacumn. Close of a pump valve. If there is room tape up a rubble sack under the valve to allow water to drain into a bucket. Put down plenty of plastic sheets and towels.

I just remove the inards. Not easy holding the new shoes and springs together though.

On some valve bodies though the brass is too worn inside for the shoes to seal.
 
ChrisR. Much sames others have said prepare area for the worst make sure bungs are tight fit close both pump valves just in case one is passing and get new valve ready to get in as quick as poss. Would not bother with just changing inners.. Re bungs one of best tools in the box prob 95% success rate with them and save loads of time. I have blown joints on 22mm using them and great on micro-bore saves moving the crap into the manifolds when draining and filling and on one pain in the ass job changed boiler on them.
 
Thanks for comments. By 'bungs' do you mean bunging the end of all three 22mm connections that go into the valve. I hope this would be easier than draining down the whole lot. Would you expect any pressure to be there or would the water just drain out until its found its own level?
Thanks.
 
No, we mean special bungs you can buy to block the feed pipe in the f/e tank in the loft, and the vent above it.
Like holding your finger over the top end of a straw and lifting it out of water... nothings falls out.... if you're lucky.
My success rate with the things is rather lower than others on the forum!
 

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