Kitchen wiring + downlighters

Hi all
I'm just trying to double check all my kitchen wiring is in order before I get building control round to inspect it. My main concern is with my dishwasher wiring in and the spur to my bathroom socket as shown below.



I just wanted to check that the area above the worktop counts as a safe zone even though the socket is hidden below the worktop and behind the dishwasher.

I have also installed some under cupboard downlighters, however as these came from a display kitchen some of the flex on them has been cut short (one of them just to a few inches). To extend it I have just used chock block and 1mm flex. Is this appropriate or is chock block not suitable for flex?

Thanks for the help
Phil

bathroom socket?!?

Are the choc blocks in an accesible choc box?

Cable runs through the bathroom are dodgy, unless iirc they are 50mm deep in the wall. Still best to avoid though. Someone will no doubt clarify.

Have you not got a ring final running above the kitchen ceiling?

Cheers for quick reply
The bathroom socket is directly through the wall so there are no runs along the wall in the bathroom (also as a note the bathroom lights are SELV and all pipework is plastic so no sup bonding issues). We did it this way because the bathroom had already been tiled so we drilled through to the kitchen and put a bathroom socket on a surface box over the hole to avoid nackering the tiling. As far as I can see the wiring is in safe zones in the kitchen, but that's what I wanted to double check.

Chock blocks are either in accessible boxes or in the downlighter fittings themselves. Is this okay, my concern was that there are no flex grippers?

Yes we have a final ring in the loft above the kitchen (we're in a bungalow) this is marked on the top of the diagram.

Horizontal/vertical from sockets are safe zones.

The bathroom socket is a bit worrying though. Whats it for? Is there a shower in there, or just a WC?

Or do you mean its a shaver socket?

Sorry, of course it's a shaver scket I'm not that bad at wiring to put a normal socket in there!

I know the safe zones are horizontal and vertical from a socket, but if the socket is hidden under the worktop behind a dishwasher does that make any difference? I'd assumed not, but wanted to double check.

Is no flex grippers on chock blocks a problem? I guess we are on the 'flex for fixed installations' debate again.

philrosenberg said:

I know the safe zones are horizontal and vertical from a socket, but if the socket is hidden under the worktop behind a dishwasher does that make any difference? I'd assumed not, but wanted to double check.

Click to expand...

How about putting a fused spur (not sure if thats the correct name, but a neon lit switch with a fuse) above the desktop, then wired down to the socket outlet. This then makes it clear there is a cable run above it, and you can easily turn the dishwasher off when your not using it.

Yes, I could put two FCUs in for dishwasher and bathroom, however if the setup shown is legal then I'd rather stick with it as is because it's all in place and tested. Plus it keeps things neat and tidy, hidden away.

If it's not correct then that's my mistake and I'll obviously change it. But I just need confirmation one way or the other.

I guess I'm just a little nervous about the council guy coming round and picking holes in my work.