want to replace a Drayton RTS1
- Thread starter mattyantz
- Start date
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The Baxi 80/105, Potterton Performa and Baxi / Pottertton Main combis all share a common electro-mechanical 24 hour timer to the best of my knowledge. They are supplied with the Main but to date I have never fitted one, because:-
1) You have to drill a 2" hole on the facia to install it
2) You still need a wired thermostat
3) They are completely and utterly useless compared to programmable room thermostats
4) It is easier to fit an RF version of (3)
1) You have to drill a 2" hole on the facia to install it
2) You still need a wired thermostat
3) They are completely and utterly useless compared to programmable room thermostats
4) It is easier to fit an RF version of (3)
mattyantz said:
The RTS1 is a standard 230V room thermostat - not really suitable for a combi
The RTS2 is the same but with an LED light
The RTS3 is a frost stat
The only one suitable for a combi is an RTS4
Hope this helps
But, to answer your original question the wiring is the same for an RTS1, 2 & 3 - assuming that you have the right wiring to begin with and further assuming that you are passing a switched live to the combi - which in the case of the Baxi will be OK
A battery operated digistat requires only two connections to the boiler. These are volt free and replace the bridge that was with the boiler as it was originally supplied.
There are only two ways in which your RTS1 was wired. Either it carried a live feed and a neutral and fed back the switched live to the boiler, or, it acted as a volt free switch - but wouldn't be able to do this very well as it wasnt designed for the job. The easy way to tell is to swing down the control panel and check the wiring to the boiler. It should be fairly obvious.
So, it's not possible to say if any wiring changes are required because it is not clear how your system works. It is true to say that you will not need to replace any of the wiring, since you only need a two-wire connection.
There are only two ways in which your RTS1 was wired. Either it carried a live feed and a neutral and fed back the switched live to the boiler, or, it acted as a volt free switch - but wouldn't be able to do this very well as it wasnt designed for the job. The easy way to tell is to swing down the control panel and check the wiring to the boiler. It should be fairly obvious.
So, it's not possible to say if any wiring changes are required because it is not clear how your system works. It is true to say that you will not need to replace any of the wiring, since you only need a two-wire connection.
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