What is the advantage of the current preferred method of joining post form kitchen worktops using a worktop jig over a plain 45 degree mitre running across the corner. An oldish router book of mine shows only the mitre method and this got me thinking as to why we have adopted the more complex "j" shape of join.
Worktop joining, why not mitre?
- Thread starter davecooper
- Start date
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Less wastage, for one reason.
I must admit I hadn't thought of the waste side of it. Given plenty of spare worktop, which would be the preferable method of joining worktops.
Is it just a case of personal preference.
Is it just a case of personal preference.
i guess with a butt & scribe method and the pressure placed on the worktop when clamping, the last thing you want is any weak spots.
i think with the way the worktop tapers down on a mitred joint it leaves the joint a little vulnerable.
maybe?
i think with the way the worktop tapers down on a mitred joint it leaves the joint a little vulnerable.
maybe?
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That's understandable. I have a jig so it seems sensible to use it.
Thanks for the replies.
Thanks for the replies.
With out been funny if you try both methods you will see why the new jig method is better and easier. The jig method allows greater tolerence for walls being out of square and can be altered without too much trouble and only needed on one worktop. If you are doing a full mitre you need to be spot on with your measurements by working out the exact angle then disecting it then setting your router gauge exactly to that angle, remembering that one of the cuts needs to be with the worktop upside down this can be tricky. Remember half a degree out in a mitre over a 600mm worktop will give you a 7mm gap at one end of the joint. When i first started doing it i kept and salvaged old worktops to practice on, now i can do worktop joints in my sleep. i still have customers who request a full mitre. if you really must go down that route then remember use a biscuit joint and 2 at least worktop jointing clamps, and re tighten them a week after fitting. Jim
I'd add to that that trying to level the joint in a 600mm but and scribe can be trying enough - doing the same on an 840mm long mitre can try the patience of a saint.....
Scrit
Scrit
Cutting a masons mitre "j" shape as you say will save on worktop lengths.
When you cut a 45 degree mitre there is a lot of waste worktop.
This method of cutting was originally used by stone masons to save on valuable stone.
Itdoesn't work with solid wood either for all those reason's and the difference in shrinkage across thje joint and it looks naf
6 year old post--------------------------- should have gone to specsavers.
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