Alpha 240P

Steven Barry · 17 Nov 2006

Hi there,
I had trouble with my boiler which ended up being a failed pump which was due to the diverter valve.
I changed the diverter valve and pump and things seemed fine.

In October i turned the heating on and since the boiler seems to be a little noisy (sounds like an small aeroplane passing by) and the hot water keeps going cold then heats back up.
I took the covers off to have a look and the shower ran perfectly, but when i put the covers back on, the pilot light keeps going out -hence the cold water problem. Can anyone help?

It would make sense that there is air in the system due to the diverter valve replacement but why does the shower work fine with the covers off. How do i check for air in the system, do I bleed the rads ?
Thanks for your time -v.much appreciated

Steven

PS can I get a manual for the alpha boiler Alpha seem to have gone on the missing list.

sime10 · 17 Nov 2006

Boiler make, system is always helpfull

kevplumb · 17 Nov 2006

fill yer boots

alpha 240 p just a wlld guess

Paul Barker · 18 Nov 2006

AAV part of pump manifold, open dust cap and leave it open, if it leaks fit new one. Bleed pump. Cycle between dhw and CH until air is purged.

give me an email address I send you adobe document of destructions.

Steven Barry · 19 Nov 2006

Paul,

Thanks for the advice mate,
Oh i did what you said about the pump dustcap and water does leak when i removed the dustcap, the pump is brand new -is it faulty, please excuse my ignorance what is an AAV and can you buy one seperate from the pump? -would this fault draw air into the system?

Much appreciated

Steven

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Paul Barker · 19 Nov 2006

Manual sent so you can delete your email address if you want to avoid spambotts.

You could try an Sentinel X800 Ferroquest treatment, follow instructions, don't leve it in more than 3hrs, fill two baths for some of that time to get it round the domestic primary side.

See where we go from there.

A new auto air vent (AAV) is obviously required right now.

Steven Barry · 25 Nov 2006

8)

Paul,
Please can you provide me with more info about the ferro treatment test i couldn't find it in the manual.

-I have looked closely at the AAV and it seems okay -as i turn it water does come out, which i imagine also releases air -not sure if that makes sense as it is supposed to be Automatic. Will probably buy one today.

At the moment i am still at a loss, -there definitely seems to be air in the pipes due to the rumbling that i can hear and the plane noise, but would that affect the instantaneous hot water -isn't this on a totally separate circuit?
thanks

Steven

Paul Barker · 25 Nov 2006

Ferroquest treatment writen on bottle. Goes something like pour it in, run heating no longer than 3 hours (some of the time run hot water, say run a bath twice interspersed with some heating time in between), drain it out. Fill run, drain, fill run drain, fill add inhibitor of choice.

This is to desludge and descale the primary side of the dhw heat exchanger and the main heat exchanger and the radiators and pipework.

Then see where you are. This is the cheap method, if it doesn't work you need to know someone with a powerflush and ideally a pump head fitting sdo the powerflush replaces the pump, then you can powerflush using strong chemicals the dhw primary side and the heating side. You can get descaling chemicals also should it be a limescale problem, but it is most likely to be a sludge problem.

Finally install a magnetic filter like Magnaclean or Boiler Buddy.

ChrisR · 25 Nov 2006

Aeroplane noises may not be pipes. Have had a number of these with gas rate way too high, which of course also tends to make HW go on-off.
Have you found many of them doing that Paul?

Steven that would take a corgi to check/adjust.

Steven Barry · 25 Nov 2006

Paul,
Sorry this may seem a very daft question -just been to B&Q -how do i pour the contents into the system, do I remove the pump?

Chris,
Thanks for your input,
-if the gas rate was too high then wouldn't this problem have occurred for a consistent period of time not just happen in the last few months?

-Yes like i say it really does sound like air / sludge due to rattling pipes and sometimes the sound of a plane or kettle.

The boiler will fire up when the tap is operated then the water will increase in temp over a period of say 2-3 minutes then the boiler cuts out and the temp drops to luke warm then to cold on second cycle.

I have checked the flow switch on the diverter valve and this seems to be operating fine even when the water goes cold the flow switch does not activate.

I have noticed that the pump does get very hot, -can't keep hand on it for more than 2 seconds before it will scald you -very hot.

Thankyou

Steven

Paul Barker · 25 Nov 2006

Yes it can happen.

ChrisR · 25 Nov 2006

I have checked the flow switch on the diverter valve and this seems to be operating fine even when the water goes cold the flow switch does not activate

EH?

I'd examine the pump, thermistors and dhwhe.
Main h/e may be sludged too.

Steven Barry · 26 Nov 2006

Chris,
sorry i should have made it clearer, when the tap is open the flow switch operates, and stays in position even when the water becomes cold, only when the tap is closed does the flow switch disengage.

How do I add the ferroquest -do i need to unscrew the pump? as i have no header or expansion tank.

Thanks,
Steven

Paul Barker · 26 Nov 2006

Bathroom rad, drain it by shutting valves and cracking one union with rad, first let this trickle into a decoraters roller tray, then open fully and pull radiator up and over off one bracket, aiming for tray. Then open bleed valve and prepare for greater flow.

When empty reassemble but leave valves shut.

Undo 1/2" plug. Make up filling part.

Simplest form is 4" of 15mm copper with an olive compressed on it. Wrap the olive with ptfe, bung this into the hole and give it a twist to the right, so it is water tight. 6" of garden hose pushed over other end of copper aiming upwards. Funnel into top of that or wide nosel from dec cork or similar.

Pout slowly, when empty 1/4 fill bottle with water and pour that in also to wash out strong solution from the parts where it hangs around waiting to flop out when you undo your coupling.

Remove coupling , reinsert plug.

Opne valves, bleed rad, repressurise system.

Repeat for adding inhibitor when all flushes are complete.

Observe COSH information on bottle, very strong acid solution.

Steven Barry · 26 Nov 2006

Paul,
It seems you are online, -just a quickie,

B&Q have got a similiar sludge treatment, would you just recommend Sentinel or would the B&Q one be suffice.

- second thoughts -i think i will wait for the plumb center to open tomorrow.

A pal of mine told me to remove the steel enclosure -that looks like a sardine tin and see if that is clogged up, -is this worth while

Thankyou very much, will be in contact during the week.

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Alpha 240P

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